Looks pretty good.
Printable View
Looks pretty good.
That looks good.
Well done looks good to me too
It was another week of sanding in the evenings when I had a spare minute. Getting to the end of the school year so I'm very busy at the moment.
I got the first coat of Dingotone Karijini Red on the guitar. Looks good so far but I am planning to apply again to intensify the colour. Temperature today is around 25 and around 32 predicted for tomorrow so should be ideal drying conditions. It'll be at least 3-4 days before I can get to it again anyway.
Sanded and ready to go:
https://i.imgur.com/Tu5URiz.jpg
The light is really bad in the garage so it was hard to see on the camera. But here it is:
https://i.imgur.com/fNLdx8Q.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/w0KecMz.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/cGcyiDh.jpg
Unfortunately I had a little accident. I had a practice at hanging the guitar before staining just to see I could do it easily enough. After staining I hadn't take into account that my hands were gloved and slippy from the stain so the string slipped and the guitar crashed to the floor. I got pretty lucky though and came out with 1 ding between the bridge and saddle post locations. This will need some attention before the next coat:
https://i.imgur.com/6GpMqDP.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/L1KQin3.jpg
Looking good (other than that ding!).
Presumably you have a soldering iron. I reckon you'd be able stem out dang near all of that dint.
Just hold a bit of damp rag (not soaking wet) on the ding and hold the soldering iron to the rag for a few seconds, check the ding, repeat as needed. Do it in small sections, don't try and get the whole ding out all at once.
If you have a search, there are YT videos that show this process in more detail.
Thanks McCreed,Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Yes, I do have a soldering iron. Good to know that there is a solution that doesn't involve sanding it right back.
Graham.
Looking good so far except for the ding which should be easy to fix.
With DT humidity is more the enemy rather than temperature during warmer weather. Need to be very, very patient allowing plenty of time between coats. From personal experience I would recommend 7 - 10 days between coats. Sounds a long time but if you rush things it will end up in tears and lots of swearing further down the track when you discover prior coats were still green and not fully cured.
Cheer Waz
Thanks Waz,Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Luckily enough I am really busy at the moment so rushing is not an option. Hopefully I can remain patient when the summer break hits!
Humidity is not too bad where I am (Central Coast NSW) but it is coming up for the time of year where it's at its worst.
Cheers,
Graham
Sanded to 400grit and applied Dingotone colourless Neck finish.
https://i.imgur.com/dO5UAIP.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/891P6RP.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/PtfOiW5.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/xOHu9KX.jpg
As with the body, I'll be leaving it until at least next weekend before putting on another coat.
How'd you go with the dent?
Leaving that one for next weekend.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Hi there. Me too!
I did the second stain coat at the weekend, just forgot to put the pictures up. Again, I will be leaving it for at least 7 days before I put on another coat. i feel it just needs one more.
https://i.imgur.com/CVGRgoE.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/u1GGHcQ.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/7gLiA6l.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/kV7eNef.jpg
I also got bored one night and decided to do the bits of soldering that I could do.
https://i.imgur.com/4ykVfpA.jpg
I was enjoying this and frustrated that I couldn't do any more so got onto Wish and bought a distortion pedal kit.
https://www.wish.com/product/590dd4c...e058?share=web
Hopefully it won't take too long and will keep me entertained while waiting for stain to dry.
I like the way you think!!! :)Quote:
I was enjoying this and frustrated that I couldn't do any more so got onto Wish and bought a distortion pedal kit.
Just a side note, not sure if you've tried to steam out that dent yet, but if not, you'll want to do it before any more staining.
Because the repair process requires a damp rag, it will lift the stain out the area of the dent when the heat is applied.
Whilst doing a touch-up with stain after is doable, you run the risk of not getting good colour balance between the repair area and the "background" colour IYKWIM.
Thank you McCreed.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
I did have a go at steaming out the dent before the second coat. I did some research and found that I probably needed to do it for a bit longer. Some were saying to lift the iron on and off for about 15 minutes. I probably only did it for 5. It did make a massive improvement and the dent is less visible and you can barely feel it.
I think I'll give it another steam before the final stain coat goes on.
I haven't really timed it when I've done it, but it is a process and not an instantaneous fix (unlike putting a ding into the wood!).Quote:
Thank you McCreed.
I did have a go at steaming out the dent before the second coat. I did some research and found that I probably needed to do it for a bit longer. Some were saying to lift the iron on and off for about 15 minutes. I probably only did it for 5. It did make a massive improvement and the dent is less visible and you can barely feel it.
I think I'll give it another steam before the final stain coat goes on.
I know have sometimes had to hit the dent a few times with some drying time in between sessions. (even overnight)
The harder the wood, the more time it will take. Also that deeper part of the dent will require the most attention.
I'd spend a bit more time with it and be sure to keep changing the position of the rag under the tip of the soldering iron so you get good moisture (therefore steam) between the tip and the wood. Re-dampen the rag as needed.
Nice colour and it will really come alive once you apply a couple of intensifier coats.
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
I had another go at the dent 3 days ago. It definitely raised the dent. Even though you can just see it, the dent is barely noticeable by touch. Given the location which is reasonably hidden under the strings, I am happy with it.
The final stain coat went on tonight. I'll wait a few days before the intensifying coat.
https://i.imgur.com/zPVmZ6O.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/IjaxFUW.jpg
Also the final clear coat on the neck:
https://i.imgur.com/9eXv24C.jpg
As I was hanging the body up I did notice something. There was a small chip missing from the neck pocket, near the binding.
https://i.imgur.com/N54wXgq.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/G6EhR70.jpg
Luckily, as I was tidying up the box where I did the staining, I found the missing piece:
https://i.imgur.com/SigeiNw.jpg
No idea how it came off but I'm assuming there wasn't much holding it and the piece just worked free.
Do you think it will be okay just to glue it back on before continuing? Once the neck is attached, it should be pretty tightly held in place anyway.
Yes a bit of CA will fix that up cleanly.
Great. Thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
So, yesterday I repaired the chip with super-glue and no issues there.
Today, I applied the decals to the headstock. I would've done this sooner but when I went to get the acrylic spray for the decal, I couldn't find it. Doh! Got in touch with Bunnings as I thought i'd left it in the shop (i bought this over a month ago). They put a can aside for me and I picked it up today, free of charge. Thank you Bunnings!!
Here is the Headstock decal printed using inkjet decal paper, sprayed with White Knight Crystal clear acrylic spray:
https://i.imgur.com/lpX9QmV.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/AfdNUcY.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/X7pKS9O.jpg
And I also applied the 1st intensifying coat to the body (Dingotone Karijini red). Like it says on the tin, it has intensified the colour. I'm interested to see how it is once dry:
https://i.imgur.com/Ag88SgU.jpg
Nice shade of red......one more intensifier coat is the charm.
Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
Looking good. Nice logo.
Wow this is a real patience game!
Unfortunately we are experiencing a very wet summer and drying times have increased (Dingotone stain). So much for getting the guitar finished in the summer holidays. I did manage another intensifying coat today.
On a plus side I have nearly finished the distortion pedal kit and about to start a build-your-own multimeter kit. https://www.jaycar.com.au/digital-mu...r-kit/p/KG9250
Once that's done I can do the Beatles lego set I got for Xmas, maybe, just maybe, the next coat will be dry by then!!
Here is the finished distortion pedal kit. It actually sounds really good, a bit noisy when cranked up but otherwise perfectly acceptable. The knobs are a bit close together but I could do nothing about that as the holes were pre-drilled.
https://i.imgur.com/mVwo0ax.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Ue12oLp.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/Ydhx8rq.jpg
And here it is next to a fuzz-box I built in Year 11 (5th Year) at school, circa 1996.
https://i.imgur.com/5Mmkujg.jpg
I applied the Dingotone finishing coats to the neck. They didn't quite have the hard, glossy, shiny finish that I was looking for (maybe it just needed more time??). I got a bottle of Tru Oil and have applied 4 light coats to the neck. It is already starting to look better. The plan is to apply another 2-3 coats, do a light sand, then another 4-5 coats. I'll see how things are then and if I need to apply some more.
The fretboard is rosewood, I had planned to finish it with wax. Now that I have the Tru Oil, will it hurt to put a few coats on the fretboard?
The body has the third intensifying coat (Dingotone) and is still too sticky to move forward. I'll give it a few days and see if it needs another intensifying coat or if I can proceed with the finishing coats. Again, I may finish with Tru Oil but not decided yet.
I also masked the binding with tape when applying the stain. Should I remove the tape and scrape the binding before the final coat or after the final coats?
I wouldn’t put try oil over a rosewood board. I think you’re better off with a finish that soaks in. I’m in the process of finishing a maple board with try oil, and it’s not much fun. It tends to build up around the base of the frets and not cure, so you end up with a bit of a mushy mess.
Thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by jonwhitear
I might just stick with plan A - a little wax on the fretboard.
I have only use Tru Oil on bodies and the back of a couple of mahogany necks (both rosewood fretboards) but have done a number of maple fretboards using wipe-on poly. Tru Oil is not dissimilar to wipe-on poly, in fact, polyurethane is actually a component of Tru Oil.Quote:
I’m in the process of finishing a maple board with try oil, and it’s not much fun. It tends to build up around the base of the frets and not cure, so you end up with a bit of a mushy mess.
My point is I had no trouble like you're describing. My finish came out perfectly flat and even along the frets.
I would suggest that you may be applying it too thick. Also, if you're only wiping in a lengthwise direction only, that will cause the frets to dam the liquid. You need to wipe the fretboard area between the frets both lengthwise and crossways to alleviate the pooling. After wiping in the cross direction, just be sure to clean up any build up along the fretboard edge so not to create runs or sags on the back of the neck.
I see no reason to apply anything to a rosewood fretboard other than periodically wiping it with a bit of lemon oil or even furniture oil. I have a 200ml bottle of "O'Cedar Revive" that's lasted nearly 20 years and I still have most of it left.Quote:
I might just stick with plan A - a little wax on the fretboard.
I'll spare you my usual "lemon oil diatribe"...
Thank you McCreed,
Like you, I got a bottle of this stuff around 1995 when I bought my Les Paul. I'm pretty sure it's still in a flight case with some left in the bottle:
https://i.imgur.com/TUkBDCY.jpg
It might just do me for another 20 years.
I had a look online and the O'Cedar product I have is no longer available as "Revive" but the company has just renamed it as O'Cedar Furniture Polish Liquid.Quote:
Originally Posted by grahamjohnston80
You can get a 300ml bottle at Coles for $8 which would last at least 6 lifetimes I'm sure! The main ingredient in both is 99.9% Mineral Oil (or what we call Parrafin Oil). Presumably the other .1% is colour & fragrance.
Attachment 38825
That's awesome thank you. I'll pick up a bottle the next time I do the dreaded "big shop."
It's certainly more economical than $15 for 50ml of Dunlop Lemon Oil.
You could portion it into little bottles and give it your guitar mates for Christmas and still have plenty for yourself!
Label it as "Graham's Fretboard Magic".
Great idea - and could be another use for the 10 A4 sheets of decal paper that I bought!!
Yes, true. I have since wiped and sanded off the mess I had made of it, and started again with very thin coats of TO, and it's working much better. I think I'm used to TO being fairly forgiving in its application (i.e. you usually can apply it fairly liberally where required) but this is one use case where it requires more care.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Quick question??
When to scrape the binding? I masked the binding before staining and I intend to finish with a few coats of Tru-oil. Do I leave the masking on and apply the tru oil? OR Remove masking tape, scrape binding then apply tru-oil?
Same goes for the neck - I have applied a few coats of tru oil and now wondering if I should take the masking tape off for the subsequent coats?? I'm thinking that the tru oil over the binding may blend to a smoother finish
:confused::confused:
Remove the tape, scrape the binding, then top coat with Tru-Oil, poly etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by grahamjohnston80
However be sure there's no adhesive residue left behind before you start your Tru-Oil. A tiny bit of naptha (shellite) on a bit of rag will safely remove it and not affect the binding.
Thank you again McCreed!!Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
So I took the masking tape off the fretboard and binding on the neck. Cleaned up the residue with a drop of Shellite. Will add another few coats of Tru-oil (I put 6 on already) and see how it goes. All looking okay so far.
Before:
https://i.imgur.com/vWTdEBJ.jpg
And after:
https://i.imgur.com/7vWz2GR.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/hjVkJAE.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/3zPSVMe.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/wqrLvXx.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/rif2eIq.jpg
...and the 25 year-old bottle of fretboard conditioner:
https://i.imgur.com/6feoICB.jpg