I like the recessed plate, it's a great touch. I think the hole lines up enough that it will sort itself out as the bolts tighten up on the countersunk part of the plate. But a second opinion wouldn't hurt.
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I like the recessed plate, it's a great touch. I think the hole lines up enough that it will sort itself out as the bolts tighten up on the countersunk part of the plate. But a second opinion wouldn't hurt.
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General consensus I thought is that the screws should slide through the body without binding.
Drill them out a tad more is my suggestion.
cheers, Mark.
For that to work you'd need to find a way to get the wax out of all the pores. I think if you find you have a nightmare problem like that and are in for a refretting then it would be better to replace the whole damn fretboard. But if you haven't got fibres coming away when you pull masking tape off the fretboard, like I had, you probably haven't a major problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by OliSam
Thanks Jim. I think i agree with you on that. AQuote:
Originally Posted by JimC
A big exciting project like that would keep me busy for quite a while
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FWIW I made a mistake with my first build and the masking tape pulled strips out of the board. I subsequently tru-oiled it and that sealed everything in with no further problems.
On my current build I waxed the board first and that minimised the pull out when the tape came off.
Wet the body down and it is drying.
Grain really does lift! Im quite surprised.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...34478760fc.jpg
I can now see the line where the two pieces were glued together.
I suppose i now have to do another light sand to remove the lifted grain.
Then on to a colour for the timbermate
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Also im looking at these colours for the timbermate
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9734959d61.jpg
Ive been looking at YT videos about colouring timbermate and the guy even uses instant coffee to get a brown colour!!!!
Has any one out there used unorthodox colouring in timbermate?
Reason is that i like the idea of a dark brown grain fill then putting truoil over the top.
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Timbermate is water-based and those particular stains are spirit-based. They won't (or shouldn't mix) mix well. You can try on a small sample but water-based stain for the Timbermate would be more suitable. Spirit stain is fine once the Timbermate is applied and dry.
In the yt clip the guy used oil base colour with timbermate. ??!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Perhaps it is just marketing hype......
Ill just find it and put it up here.
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https://youtu.be/-CQ4xZ4shiAQuote:
Originally Posted by OliSam
What do you think of this?
Perhaps not really true?
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He's not frittering away the budget on video production.Quote:
Originally Posted by OliSam
cheers, Mark.
[emoji23]
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Touch wood, I may be in the Mustang club.
Buy it now on the 'last one' sitting on e-bay.
Attachment 35566
cheers, Mark.
Ha ha[emoji23]Quote:
Originally Posted by king casey
Do it!!
I am quite enamored with it tbh.
It ticks all of my boxes.
Ill be putting it together totally stock first up.
Then later ill be looking for those rAil type humbuckers.
I am even considering mustang switching down the road and then using the current switch hole as a split switch.
However i dont want to get ahead of myself as i really like to play them for a few months so i can become really accustomed to the ergonomics.
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No worries Oli. I got the last one.Quote:
Originally Posted by OliSam
Now for the research...
Attachment 35567
cheers, Mark.
Or something like this......Quote:
Originally Posted by king casey
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0212015c61.jpg
But with single coil size humbuckers
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I'm just surprised, that's all (I've never used Timbermate as it's hard to get and expensive in the UK). It's just that oil and water don't mix well, but maybe there isn't much water at all in Timbermate. I've been using Aqua Coat, and that is also a water based grain filler, but that definitely states it may be tinted using just water-based stains/dyes. But that is a lot more liquid than Timbermate looks to be before you add anything to it.Quote:
Originally Posted by OliSam
Well. I filled the grain with a little bit of instant coffee.
Rubbed it all in last night.
I actually thought it was very flat before rubbing this stuff in.
But now as i sand it down i can see this line form........
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...9fcaff36be.jpg
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And another
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...0a61cc3616.jpg
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Ok. Headstock shaped last night in front of the tv.
I was reminiscing on the necks that i have. Which feels best.....
i have a LP with a pretty flat “back of the neck” (im sure there is a proper term for this) and it just feels the best when moving around the neck.
And the hardest one to play that i have is fairly fat and round on the back of the neck.
So whilst the neck was sitting on my lap i decided to take a couple of mm off the back. Not much and hardly noticeable.
Just to flatten it a bit.
Out with the 180 grit and just kept rubbing back and forward. Sorry no pictures.
It seemed to work.
Then up through the grades.
Im kind of impressed with myself. The couch and carpet are full of dust and im in trouble with the minister for all things.
But It feels better already.
Im pretty sure that the neck hasnt lost any stability as it is just a bit.
Fingers crossed.
Im going to rub some tru oil in now and see what she looks like..........
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Oh yeah. Im ok with that.
1 coat of tru oil
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...7bd69e5b46.jpg
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Looking good.
Stuck in the copper tape tonight and ..........After about 10 costs of tru oil i have this......
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a8d706df9f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...889538ca87.jpg
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Going to look at wiring and bridge alignment next.
I love this part cos it starts to look like a proper guitar!!!!!
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Neat copper work, but you haven't run any over the top to make contact with the copper going under the pickguard. Will you be running a dedicated ground wire for the cavity copper foil as an alternative? I can see a small amount of copper at the edged of some of the routs but you really want a decent contact area, and ideally run at least one area of copper underneath a pickguard screw hole so there is good positive pressure holding the copper together. It doesn't look as neat, but it's all about the practical aspects and you won't see it when assembled.
Nice!!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by OliSam
Looking Schmick Oli, I like the streamlining of the neck plate by recessing it into the guitar body.
Looking real good! I was somclose tompulling the pin on that last one. Have to wait till the next shipment I guess,
It's coming along nicely Oli.
Hehe...It was that or the ES-5V on the 'specials' page.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jomasgaard
The cheaper option won the day.
cheers, Mark.
Hi Simon. I ran out of copper So i didnt do the pickguard!Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
It will be an “upgrade” after a few months of playing it stock standard for a while.
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Thanks mate. It was you and Sonic that were my inspiration.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
As i stalk your builds and his shoegazer i wonder how to smooth out the back of the neck join.
This was my attempt at being as cool as you two[emoji23][emoji23]
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Oh man. This is bad.
I put the bridge in to check string alignment.
Two screws broke whilst screwing them in! They werent even tight so it couldnt have been my overtightening that broke them.
So a 5 screw bridge is only being held in by 3 screws.
Any idea of what i can do to get them out as theyre down in the timber.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...d1df63c958.jpg
Feeling a little worried about this now
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If it was me....
I'd get the smallest drill bit and start drilling the remainder of the screw out.
Probably increasing the size periodically but make sure not to go bigger than the bit used to drill the hole.
'If it was me'
cheers, Mark.
LOL! Don’t emulate me, you’ll never get anything finished! 🤣🤣Quote:
Originally Posted by OliSam
Quote:
Originally Posted by OliSam
Oh bugger. Yes a lot of the hardware is made out of Chinesium. It's very important to drill pilot holes and lubricate the threads with wax or something.
Your best bet is do probably do what King suggested and carefully drill them. The material is soft, but the bit will still prefer to bite the wood. Otherwise you could dig around it enough to get some pliers on and wind them out. Mark where the bridge is so you don't damage any exposed areas. Then if it were me I would drill a nice, larger hole and glue and plug with dowel, then re drill a pilot hole.
It's annoying, but this is also typical of the challenges with kit builds, you are not the first! It's a setback not a disaster.
Hey don't put that ju-ju on us lol.Quote:
Originally Posted by OliSam
youre not kidding about Chinesium... the body came with drilled holes in the body where the bridge goes so they were going in quite easily.....oh well....Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
I was worried that they were not drilled in straight or perhaps at the wrong scale length.
As it turns out they were all in teh right spots, straight strings and correct scale length.
Regarding remediation, I think that if i was to use a small drill bit like the King suggested i would need a drill press to keep everything steady ..but i dont have one and as such i think that I will go your suggestion of a big hole and a plug.
very scary.
good point about keeping it all under the bridge also. that way i can make it kind of large-ish and plug it with some solid wood.
NAMES AND DECALS!
I am going to name this guitar in honour of a special song.
It is called Bellbottoms by the Jon Spencer Blues Explosion.
These guys made a big impression on me when i was younger..and i still love their stuff......when seen live theyre totally bonkers.
a few waterslide ideas..
Attachment 35677
and this is the song!!!!!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TZzVmGuUYQg
If you dont know JSBX you may still know the song from this movie which i think was quite popular. Baby Driver.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=so85J_-Ww24
Drift over to the lab, We can lock it down in the drill press and sort it out.
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Thanks so much for the offer mate but ive just got back from the green shed.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
1.8m of 6mm tazzie oak dowel $3
Pack of brass timber screws $3
Keep an ear out as you may hear me crying from a looooong w ay away
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Do you think i could drill a hole straight?
Even with full concentration?
No way.
As i drilled with a 5.5mm bit there was a lot of screw filings coming out with the wood. Thats to be expected i suppose.
And i went down a half millimetre on the drill bit as i expected that i would wobble and the 6mm dowel would then fit nicely.
The dowel was wobbly when i pressed it in so i coated it with glue and hammered it back in.
Tighter now. Phew! Crisis averted.
Not as clean as i would have hoped but it is covered by the bridge.
So here is a shot of the progress...
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...107d6f343c.jpg
Then hammering in the dowel
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...3b41cbd848.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...8d247b46d7.jpg
I think ill assemble it tonight and see how it goes.
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ooooofff😳😬 I would have recommended a drill guide or something over the hole to keep things squared. But it’s did, the plugs are in, now we wait!Quote:
Originally Posted by OliSam