Edit: sorry I commented before seeing the later pictures.
Looking good!
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Edit: sorry I commented before seeing the later pictures.
Looking good!
My experience has been the complete opposite. I get a neater result with a forstner.Quote:
You're far more likely to get wonky holes using a forstner bit if you aren't drilling strait into the wood.
Just goes to show the ol' "different strokes for different folks" philosophy is applicable here.
I do have a drill press that has just enough throat depth for strat or tele body though.
I think Simon is referring to using a forstner bit to widen an already existing hole rather than using the pointed part of a forstner bit to start it.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Hey guys
Tried different methods to drill a straight hole without a drill press.
About 4 pieces of thin mdf stuck together with individual holes drilled in each, aligned each hole then stuck together.
2 pieces of 50 mm wide timber stuck together with a slight over hang on one to form a straight edge then drilled down along right angle.
A woodworking shop had a drill jig guide on special for $43
Went the usual method. 2 outside holes straight through then other 4 halfway. Flipped guitar over inserted 3mm drill bits into outside holes and drilled other 4 straight through to ensure smooth internal slot.
Best result was the jig. See what you think
This was using a 3mm brad point bit.
https://i.imgur.com/8Rs4rQk.jpg
Ferrules were 9.5 mm wide and of course dont make a 9mm forsther bit so went a 8mm forstner bit then a 9mm standard drill.
https://i.imgur.com/4QfUWpc.jpg
The final result. ( not inserted as yet )
https://i.imgur.com/9yv6AbK.jpg
Too late now anyway lol.
Thanks JoeQuote:
Originally Posted by Joe Garfield
Ahhhh, thanks Mark. That would make sense.Quote:
I think Simon is referring to using a forstner bit to widen an already existing hole rather than using the pointed part of a forstner bit to start it.
Twodogs, those look pretty dang close to me! You'll likely be the only one that might notice it when you're done. ;)
btw, I've done worse!
Thanks McCreed.
Very nervous drilling those holes lol.
Good morning. Hope everyone had a nice weekend.
Question time. Need advice please.
Just about ready to stain and was thinking a light stain like vintage amber or butterscotch but worried about the darker centre board.
Attachment 35009
I think I only have the following options.
1. Use a filler to try to even out colour across the whole body.
2. Try a primer before staining.
3. Have to use a darker stain.
4. Someone has the correct method.
Thanks for all your help
Very hard to do much about it. On the front of the body, you are only going to see the bit behind the bridge, as most will be covered by the scratchplate. But the back will be more visible (though obviously not seen much when playing). That centre section has a definite grain pattern as well, so itself has lighter and darker areas.
I have the same problem on a Gordon Smith Strat I'm refinishing for a friend, and that was an AUD$800 guitar when new, and very badly finished indeed. But that was, and will be again, a sunburst, which reduces the impact of the darker central section.
You could try two stains, a light amber for the centre piece and a darker amber for the lighter sides. It won't work perfectly, but it could reduce the contrast between the two colours to a less noticeable level. You'd need to mask off the areas when staining, but you still might get some bleed between the two stains. Or you just accept it for what it is, and live with the mismatch.
If the darker section was more central, you could almost make a feature of it. You could even consider painting a solid dark stripe down the middle of the guitar, and have the wings amber. Or do a solid butterscotch paint job.
The more expensive GTL models are the best ones to get for doing a straight amber/butterscotch or butterscotch blonde finish on. The basswood bodies TLs always have more variance. Basswood can be quite figured, but it is more often than not very plain, of mixed hue, and best suited for solid colour finishes.
Thanks for your advice Simon. Much appreciated.
I was planning on a copy of an iconic guitar but that's cool need to adapt to problems as they arise.
The guitar I'm planning originally started out a black tele but was eventually sanded down to natural finish.
So I have two options.. either go black or come up with own colour. Thinking maybe tobacco brown base with layers of yellow, orange, cherry red like a prs tiger eye.
The dark tobacco brown base might hide the centre piece.
What a few days. My head hurts.
Just in relation to my last post about the dark center board.
https://i.imgur.com/IQlk6Nv.jpg
I ended up posting the same post on a Facebook guitar finishing group and the answers were everything from crap body to paint it or use it as a stripe. Now don't get me wrong, I already have 3 painted guitars I bought and if I wanted another painted guitar I would have bought one. It would have been a lot cheaper lol.
And not into stripes i'm old school so really wanted a nice stained sort of vintage look. ( I have a certain old tele i'm trying to replicate but make it my own). And as I am like a old dog with a bone I was going no where.
So one night after a few bourbons I think i typed in wood bleach into Google and bam. I think I had the answer.
Most recommend a wood bleach kit which contains two solutions. Handy if your in the USA but did find one supplier in Aus. Emailed them saying any chance I can pick it up (well it was Friday and I wanted it for the weekend lol. But no reply.
Back to google to find how to make your own wood bleach or should that be how to blow things up at home lol.
Ok now the serious stuff.
This mix can be toxic so please make sure you have all PPE. Especially GLASSES.
It is a ""Two part"A/B peroxide based bleach. Sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) and hydrogen peroxide. The hydrogen peroxide must be high percentage not 3% from chemist or 9 % from hair dressers. I'm talking high % probably 37% or more. I got some 50% hydrogen peroxide from a hydroponics shop or you could try a pool and spa shop or maybe a cleaning supply company.
Combined they create a chemical reaction that creates bleach that can alter the colour of the wood its self. So they say lol.
It took me a number of experiments to find which works the best. Some included the mixing of the two and applying with varying set times. But here is what i think is working for me.
First I got the hydrogen peroxide and applied straight to body. Waited about 20 minutes. Then I mixed up 4 teaspoons of caustic soda to 1/2 cup of water, stirred and applied over the hydrogen peroxide. After a while you can see crystals appear on top. Once it has soaked in for 12 hours you need to get a 50/50 mix of water and white vinegar and apply. Then wash with plain water. Then another go with 50/50 water and white vinegar before one last rinse with plain water. Leave to dry.
This is after 6 hours.
https://i.imgur.com/nbGP3ur.jpg
A close up image of damage...oops I mean bleaching
https://i.imgur.com/bynJbug.jpg
After 12 hours soaking in and cleaned up. Still need to sand.
https://i.imgur.com/HMUvHQo.jpg
Might give the whole body a going over tonight and see if it blends in better.
Not sure how it will affect the stain when I apply it but that's for another post.
Given the tonal difference at your starting point, nice work.
Not sure I'd be keen on playing with that mix of chem at home though, kudos for the effort but!
Hi FrankenWashie.Quote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
That was my first thought as well about the chemicals. But then I saw it was used for bleaching floorboards and furniture so I thought I would give it a go.
It's a risk but if you neutralise properly and seal it in there seems to be no issues I came across.
And about playing it. This is my first guitar build. Even I'm not sure if it will be playable let alone me playing it lol.
Well done.
I know Fender used to bleach their bodies for a while in the early days, presumably to allow for a wood colour mismatch such as yours. But they stopped doing it after a while.
Let's hope it stains OK.
Hey Simon.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Re stain...You know what if it doesn't stain I'll just buy another one (with another wood body not basswood lol). I have not had so much fun and learnt so much in ages all for 150$ if I had to pay someone to teach me what I have learnt or pay someone to do that work I think it would cost more than 150 lol.
.
The tele kit is just something to have fun with and learn on before my custom ES 3 kits arrives Been waiting almost 6 months so you see why I got the tele kit lol
If the tele ends up playable so be it but more concerned about learning and hands on experience before I hack into..oops build the ES 3 lol
But you've added some good knowledge to the forum with the wood bleaching tip.
As long as the bleach has now been neutralised, it should stain well.
LOL, I know that feeling, and I’m a number of kits and a couple of scratch builds in! As long as you’re having fun, the rest of it really doesn’t matter!Quote:
Originally Posted by Twodogies
What a neat trick - thanks for sharing
Morning all
Just a little update.
Stained neck using Feast & Watson's Golden teak stain and wipe on poly. First light coat done.
Still thinking of using a decal for the headstock...not sure as yet.
https://i.imgur.com/nwmVb5w.jpg
Still haven't thought of a colour for the body yet lol.
Have a few choices lol. Still waiting on Dingotone Butterscotch.
https://i.imgur.com/lLH0ZnR.jpg
Might have to mix a few colours..
It will be the next addition to my family...Her name will be Carmen
https://i.imgur.com/eXCm0QV.jpg
I vote decal. I don't think guitars look finished with a blank headstock.
Arvo JugglindanQuote:
Originally Posted by jugglindan
Thanks..now I have to think of a name lol.
Yeah, that's the tricky part.Quote:
Originally Posted by Twodogies
How about 'Twodogies'?
cheers, Mark.
You could always try something fun like the Band Name Maker. It gave me "The Cry Of The Twodogies Pockets", but maybe that doesn't translate to a guitar name that well.
Thinking something musical . ..Quote:
Originally Posted by king casey
It is a sort of tribute guitar so how about Bandcaster ..i was thinking of by Carmen Guitars but that's taken soQuote:
Originally Posted by jugglindan
Bandcaster
By twodogies or by Jumas Guitars which is part mums and dads names.
Which one is the Artist lp-60 or the lp-59? Been toying buying a 59Quote:
Originally Posted by Twodogies
Good morning PhrozinQuote:
Originally Posted by phrozin
The black one is the Artist lp60...very nice..Has Wilkinson MWCHB "Hot" Humbucker Pickups..
The Artist Cherry 58 es 335 style has Artist bullbucker pickups and i believe the lp59 uses as well. Has a beautiful sound. My go to guitar at present.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Twodogies
How about Houndcaster by Two Doggies?
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Hey JaraffBluQuote:
Originally Posted by JaraffBlu
Nice idea..might use that for my ES 175 kit I am waiting on.
Good afternoon
Well that was an interesting two weeks or so.
Spent hours trying different colour combinations but just couldn't find a colour I liked. So I thought well the guitar I am basing this off went through a few changes anyway so why not stain it the way it was originally. So black it is. Just used Feast and Watson Black Prooftint.
Do you think 20 coats of Feast and Watson's Wipe on Poly is enough.
https://i.imgur.com/2A13R56.jpg
Started with 2 coats of stain then sanded. Sanded back with 240 then another 4 coats of stain. Left dry for 2 days.
Then used the slurry method to apply the wipe on poly. Using 1500 sandpaper sanded the wipe on poly into the body. Left dry 6 hours then another layer of wipe on poly with 1500. Let dry 24 hours. Then just applied thin coats of wipe on poly leaving 6 hours to dry between coats. Then after every 3 coats of poly gave a nice going over with 0000 steel wool removing any runs or high spots.
Some of the stain seems to have soaked more into the wood then other places. One spot is covered by the pick guard and the spots on the back can only be seen on a certain angle.
But it's cool. Not to concerned actually. Funny enough I was going for a used, worn look. Didn't want to do a relic but wanted something a bit rough.
Logo added.
https://i.imgur.com/qFGlGe3.jpg
Neck done with 8 coats of Wipe On Poly.
https://i.imgur.com/6i6KUb8.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/xyA9wSL.jpg
Again the neck is not the best but sort of what i was going for that played look.
Now just have to wait 2 weeks while the poly hardens. Hopefully my custom ES 3 kit will be here soon so I can make a start on that while I wait.
Now for the interminable wait to flatten and polish! Looking good mate!
Hey FWQuote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie
Thanks for your compliment. Sort of happy how it is going so far. I'll give it 6 out of 10 at this stage lol.
As this is my first build and have not done woodworking since high school in 1982 this is more of a trial run for future builds. Testing this trying that. I have learnt so much during this build and even if it turns out only ok I am more than happy with the experience i have got and the build has taught me patience lol.
As for the waiting for curing looks like it may not be that bad. Got the dreaded phone call. Yep looks like may be heading back to work so will help with the frustrating waiting time lol.
And there's always the garage to clean up after the build lol.