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I am about to start work on the frets for my tele neck, so what was the lesson? Does waxing before masking tape help prevent bits of rosewood coming off with the tape (implied by your comments) or something else?Quote:
Originally Posted by blinddrew
It's only for the engineered rosewood necks. They aren't that good and bits fall off them easily. Masking tape glue can pull out small chunks and fibres. You really need to use something like thin superglue or thin epoxy on them to help keep them together. I used GlueBoost extra thin CA on one and it worked well. The GlueBoost stuff doesn't fume like many other CAs do, but it is relatively expensive to buy if you aren't in the US.
For normal maple or rosewood boards etc, it's not a problem.
Great, thanks. I have a real rosewood board so I would prefer to not put anything on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
If masking tape pulls any fibres off of that, then you've got real problems!
Sorry, I will be using tape. I meant I would prefer to avoid putting anything like wax or mineral oils on it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Lemon oil or unboiled linseed oil is normal.
You'll be fine with real rosewood - the picture at the top of this page: https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...?t=8546&page=4 (if you zoom in) sort of shows the chunks that were pulled out on my first build (it looks worse in the flesh). Waxing the board prevented that this time without seeming to leave any residue or unpleasant feeling to the wood.
Today's dumb question: stain before grain filler or after?
Instinct says before...
It depends on your grain filler. If it says it's stainable, then after is easier. If not, then before!
Of course, if you are using a contrasting colour grain filler for highlights, then you need to stain before.
Do you mean grain fill before?Quote:
Of course, if you are using a contrasting colour grain filler for highlights, then you need to stain before.
Sanding back the grain filler is going to take the stain off along with it.
That does depend on how well the stain has penetrated the wood.
Ah, internet problems, just picked this up.
I'm sure it will be fine....
Well it turns out I'm actually waiting on some more sand paper as, in my hurry, I'd bought the wrong pack from Amazon. On the positive side I now have shed loads of really fine stuff.
But anyway, on the principle that I need to do a bit more sanding before I put the grain filler on, and then more sanding again afterwards, I thought I'd see how the stain was going to work out on this wood.
Bearing in mind Simon's advice above about grain popping, I did do a bit of a wash with some dark ink but just to darken the overall colour as I prefered that on my test stick:
https://i.imgur.com/Ssz04M6.jpg
Then first coat of red - bit wishy-washy, not really the wine-red I was looking for:
https://i.imgur.com/rMFR75Q.jpg
Second coat, that's a bit more like it:
https://i.imgur.com/4n3z60t.jpg
I'm not going to go any further for now but I'm comfortable that this is going to give me the right kind of shade. :)
So, grain filler. That's interesting stuff isn't it?
Tried using a spatula at first (as suggested on the tin) but gave up and used my fingers after that. Suspect it may need another coat.
Anyway, sanded to 320 and grain filled:
https://i.imgur.com/08LUjwR.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/k5PkCP4.jpg
Working back up through the grades. Up to 180. Wouldn't normally bother with a photo at this point but as I was sanding this I was reminded of those old muscle anatomy diagrams you used to get in textbooks:
https://i.imgur.com/aKlfOid.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/lS55zSE.jpg
Yes, it does take me back to the old Tortora anatomy textbook. Or as I used to call it, the Torture textbook.
Torture Textbook, i'll remember that. :)
Quick 'wipe on poly' question to the experts, how many coats between sanding normally?
Cheers
What about sanding strangely?
That comes with the territory.
Ok: normally, how many coats between sanding?
Really depends on how much dust each layer picks up. The idea is to build up enough thickness to sand back level and polish it. So in theory you don't need to sand intermediate coats. But you don't want visible dust and hairs in the finish, so maybe sand each coat just enough to remove those, and also key the surface for the next layer.
Thank you again, for about the millionth time! :)
In addition to Simon's advice, the initial coats will really get sucked up by the raw timber.
I find it's usually about the 4th coat before you start develop an even build, and that's when I'll start to consider any sanding (as needed like Simon said) and then it's just a light knock back with a fine synthetic sanding pad (or fine sandpaper) to remove dust nibs.
Actually, I didn't remember the full name (it's been a very long time and 2 careers ago!), so I looked it up. The text was by Tortora and Anagnostakos (a later edition of this one) so we used to call it Torture and Agony. Funny the things I remember by looking at people's guitar builds...Quote:
Originally Posted by blinddrew
Torture and Agony? It's the gift that keeps giving! :)
Thanks McCreed, will bear that in mind.
Staining part 1 done, happy with the wine red.
https://i.imgur.com/O2ZbnPG.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/wLafE9q.jpg
Next step is to over-complicate things and balls it up completely.
Welcome to the Lab, Here is your pass key and on boarding package, HR will run you through the lack of ethics training and Igor will conduct your OHS training once he’s reattached his left arm.Quote:
Originally Posted by blinddrew
More vintage cherry than wine (which is purplish) but a nice colour and an even stain.
Looking good. Wouldn’t be a home build without a balls up along the way.
Well I'd hate to let you all down so...
Adding a variable pitch chamfer to the top edge, rough cut:
https://i.imgur.com/t8rb6vK.jpg
And then I realised that the surface I'd clamped it to had managed to pick up some crud (it's really windy here today) so I've got a couple of divots in the back:
https://i.imgur.com/zGp905H.jpg
And then I managed to get really slack with the sandpaper:
https://i.imgur.com/MBJIawo.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/4OPI0CG.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/uP387KN.jpg
I've done a bit of touching up and I'll see how it looks later. Ho hum.
Still debating whether I should make the top surface of the lower horn pointy or leave it curved.
Something like this maybe:
https://i.imgur.com/w5KkHrz.png
Have you thought about how you are going to stop the stain bleeding over the unstained area? In my ignorance I’d be thinking about adding a coat or two of clear before completing this step.
Nope I have not. I'm going to experiment with my test stick when we get to that point.
Do you call the stick 'Al'? ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by blinddrew
Well calling it Hal doesn't seem like a good idea so maybe...
I decided to pointy up the top of the lower horn and I'm happy with that decision. Then taped up the sides and grainfilled the chamfer. I hate that stuff even though I'm beginning to get the hang of it.
Hal works as well.
As in "test stick Hal".
No?
Still don't get it?
Excuse me a moment...
wait for it...
wait for it...
nearly there...
aaaand I've caught up.
Apologies, bout of insomnia last night, not at my best today.
Well that's vexing. It turns out the clear poly I've bought isn't actually dilutable with my turps. Which is vexing as I poured the whole pot in.
I'm also not happy about how the stain is bleeding on Hal.
Going to go away and think about things for a bit.
Why don’t you give it a couple of coats to seal in the colour and sand the natural area once again?