Testing Electronics in TL-1 kit

I have only used the inductance function to see if my pickups' specs were what the mfg said they should be. Of course the only pups I have that *tell* me what the inductance specs should be are my Bill Lawrence's. One and only to e I used that function. My wife is convinced that that is enough and that we don't need an oscilloscope.

I haven't a clue as to how accurate the inductance reading is on the 4070...It was very close to what BL said my pups should be...

I use the Ohm meter by far the most. I use the cap meter some...and that's pretty much it, so to me the Craftsman does pretty much all you'll need to build a guitar.

I don't think I know enough to endorse the 4070. I just put it out there as the cheapest one I have found that can measure caps.

BTW the 4070D seems to have identical functions to the L. Both are listed as RCL meters. I thought the "L" might stand for "light" since it has s backlit screen...but the D seems to have this feature too. My current theory is that D stands for "discontinued" since only the L model is listed on the mfg's website ;-)

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Originally Posted by fender3x

I have only used the inductance function to see if my pickups' specs were what the mfg said they should be. Of course the only pups I have that *tell* me what the inductance specs should be are my Bill Lawrence's. One and only to e I used that function. My wife is convinced that that is enough and that we don't need an oscilloscope.

I haven't a clue as to how accurate the inductance reading is on the 4070...It was very close to what BL said my pups should be...

I use the Ohm meter by far the most. I use the cap meter some...and that's pretty much it, so to me the Craftsman does pretty much all you'll need to build a guitar.

I don't think I know enough to endorse the 4070. I just put it out there as the cheapest one I have found that can measure caps.

BTW the 4070D seems to have identical functions to the L. Both are listed as RCL meters. I thought the "L" might stand for "light" since it has s backlit screen...but the D seems to have this feature too. My current theory is that D stands for "discontinued" since only the L model is listed on the mfg's website ;-)

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I see. You've given some very good pointers f3x but a lot flies over my befuddled newbie brain. Do you know of a resource that gives me step guidance (with lots of those 1000-word images) that will get me started with understanding my guitar electronics and initial tests? I am reading guidance on this forum and watching videos but things are spread out. It doesn't help that I have limited knowledge that inhibits my online searches. If you know of a forum post or other online reference that would help, please send my way. Meanwhile, I'm still studying.

You mention assembling "the wiring harness on a template." I have a breadboard and electronic connectors. Do you know a resource that illustrate how to setup a template for more accurate testing?

I'm throwing a lot at you and McCreed but you fellas have a wealth of knowledge.

Happy 4th of July from an old Yank.

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I liked the graphic ;-)

Here's a tutorial on testing with a multimeter...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tr-8uj95330

Your wiring is simpler than what is depicted in the video, but the principles are all the same.

I would note that he tests continuity on the backs of the pots. That should be fine, but I generally do it on the ring of the jack. It shouldn't matter too much, but I do it at the jack because that's where the ground ultimately has to be. Once it is all installed, clip one lead to the strings and touch the ring of the jack to make sure they are grounded as well. You can do the same with the shielding if you add some.

I use a template like the one the guy uses in the video...all that means is that everything is arranged on a piece of thin wood or cardboard that has been drilled to be exactly like where the controls will go. That's important on my project, which is an ES. You already have a built in template, since your switch and pots all fit on a Tele control plate.

Did your kit come pre-wired? I have not seen one of these kits. The pics on the website don't show the back of the control plate. If it's prewired, then great! If not you'll need a wiring diagram. Caution, do not use the one on the Pitbull website because it's incomplete. Additional caution, there are at least two common types of Tele switch and they are wired a little differently. A pic of the back of your control plate would clear this up (for me, anyway...others may already know) ;-)

You can test the pups as in these videos. Your pickups should only have two leads, so you probably don't need to see much more than half the video ;-)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kK-yUVlBltU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMaRs1jGQPg

I am guessing that they will have resistance in the 3-5K range. A little higher for the bridge than the neck.

Hope this helps!

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Originally Posted by fender3x

I liked the graphic ;-)

Your wiring is simpler than what is depicted in the video, but the principles are all the same.

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The links are amazing, just what I needed f3x! You be THE MAN!

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I would note that he tests continuity on the backs of the pots. That should be fine, but I generally do it on the ring of the jack. It shouldn't matter too much, but I do it at the jack because that's where the ground ultimately has to be. Once it is all installed, clip one lead to the strings and touch the ring of the jack to make sure they are grounded as well. You can do the same with the shielding if you add some.

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I'll check into that and probably have some questions for you.

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I use a template like the one the guy uses in the video...all that means is that everything is arranged on a piece of thin wood or cardboard that has been drilled to be exactly like where the controls will go. That's important on my project, which is an ES. You already have a built in template, since your switch and pots all fit on a Tele control plate.

Did your kit come pre-wired? I have not seen one of these kits.

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Based on what I saw in the videos you shared, I'm thinking I can lay out the control panel, pickups and output jack, clipping the connections to the pickups and output temporarily as long as I get the earth (ground) connections right. Then I can run an end to end test on everything, in addition to individual tests on the other components as shown in vids.

The switch and pots in the control plate are pre-wired. I must wire to the pickups, output jack and ground under the bridge. See these quick pics:

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Attachment 31579

The blue wire connected to the pot above looks a bit messy. I found an errant wire stringing out. I will clip it back so there is no electronic interference.

Attachment 31580

Attachment 31582

On the Tone pot seen above, notice that the capicitor wire connected to the pot (not ground on top) sticks out visibly. Do you think I should trim that back as well or is it acceptable sticking out like that? Printed on the capcitor is 2A473J. No data besides CE is printed on the back of the volume and tone pots and nothing on the switch circuit board. I'm going to do some research on the pots, switch and pickups to see what I can find so far as specs. It's that old kitty curiosity kicking in. :cool:

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The pics on the website don't show the back of the control plate. If it's prewired, then great! If not you'll need a wiring diagram. Caution, do not use the one on the Pitbull website because it's incomplete. Additional caution, there are at least two common types of Tele switch and they are wired a little differently. A pic of the back of your control plate would clear this up (for me, anyway...others may already know) ;-)

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I agree, the pic on the PBG site is confusing, but I figured it out. I also watched the PBG TL-1 wiring video at https://youtu.be/pj3NLscxD0U so I think soldering to and installing the control panel and pickups will be pretty straightforward.

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You can test the pups as in these videos. Your pickups should only have two leads, so you probably don't need to see much more than half the video ;-)
...
I am guessing that they will have resistance in the 3-5K range. A little higher for the bridge than the neck.

Hope this helps!

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This helps immensely, my friend. Just what I needed. Thanks so much!

Rick

I'd trim any wire that just sticks out, like the one on the cap. As long as it doesn't touch anything that's not already grounded it shouldn't matter either way. I'd just do it to keep it from catching on anything.

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