First Build: TL-1 - Let the fun begin

Thanks...did a damp wipe and yep little fibres popping up, so will do a gentle sand. Just a question to and you all has anyone done a shellac then stain with blend of french polish shellac tinted about 10-20% with say a warm brown stain? I've used this technique on a hard wood..just tinkering on the weekend and liked the finish however I'm not familiar with basswood so really up for advice and thoughts. And thanks for all the recommends on stains to check out..I'll be a google staining queen by the end of this..:)

Marcel thanks for the advice re Hardware as completely omitted to think about that with regard to finish. Am I best once I get to finish stage as I gradually move through stages to check hardware fit? sorry not really familiar in this area outside of if finish is too thick is will affect how pieces sit ie too high :)

Basswood is technically a hardwood (though it's physically quite soft), so it should respond in a similar way to other hardwoods. I've seen people do shellac finishes on basswood with no problems.

Finish thickness is not normally an issue with fitting components. The only area to be careful of is the neck pocket. This is normally left unfinished, with just maybe 2mm of the very inside edges having finish applied, to help the finish stick to the sharp pocket corners. The neck itself is finished all over (except for maybe the fretboard, which some people simply wax rather than add a clear coat).

One thing to check before starting any finishing is to check the bridge positioning. You need to do a mock build. this is described in the instruction manual you can download from this web page. https://www.pitbullguitars.com/instruction-manual/

A lot of the TL kits need the bridge pickup rout extended in order to position the bridge so the intonation can be correctly set once it's all put together. This is something that can be done with a Dremel drum sander bit and some care.

Thanks heaps Simon and appreciate the advise on the neck as must say a bit unsure as it seems some are wax, some are clear and one site can't remember which one referenced Indian ink. I'll check the link too!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Simon Barden

Basswood is technically a hardwood (though it's physically quite soft), so it should respond in a similar way to other hardwoods. I've seen people do shellac finishes on basswood with no problems.

Finish thickness is not normally an issue with fitting components. The only area to be careful of is the neck pocket. This is normally left unfinished, with just maybe 2mm of the very inside edges having finish applied, to help the finish stick to the sharp pocket corners. The neck itself is finished all over (except for maybe the fretboard, which some people simply wax rather than add a clear coat).

One thing to check before starting any finishing is to check the bridge positioning. You need to do a mock build. this is described in the instruction manual you can download from this web page. https://www.pitbullguitars.com/instruction-manual/

A lot of the TL kits need the bridge pickup rout extended in order to position the bridge so the intonation can be correctly set once it's all put together. This is something that can be done with a Dremel drum sander bit and some care.

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Ok...so where am I on the build well, firstly been a a tad slack so not much however have been testing techniques.
Basswood sample.
Sanded 240 grit then taped into quarters. Why, so can I try test areas to get an idea on result and learnings :) ....very organised for me!
Four samples:
1 - 240 grit sand, shellac (thin coat), light sand, then applied a coat Brown jarrah (brush..not a good brush) - don't mind a bit of the hue of shellac coming through however will need a further light sand and diluted coat of stain before approaching any final finish layers.

2 - 240 grit sand, proof sealer (now did a sand on this - some say don't but I opted to) coat of shellac, light sand, coat of brown japan (brushed on)
For each of these there will be quite of bit of sanding required to achieve a very smooth finish and invest in a good quality brush or using of a lint free cloth for application.
3 - 240 grit sand, tint directly applied (far out this wood is like a sponge), light buff then...yep tried a rough free hand dremel. The wood doesn't have too clunky a texture to dremel on however steadiness of hand is needed as the wood can burr a bit. Haven't done a light sand over yet.
4 - 240 grit sand and then boiled linseed oil..(oh I did place this section over a flame to see if it would enhance colour and texture of wood..was marginal.

Attachment 25423Attachment 25424Attachment 25425

Ok...so where am I on the build well, firstly been a a tad slack so not much however have been testing techniques.
Basswood sample.
Sanded 240 grit then taped into quarters. Why, so can I try test areas to get an idea on result and learnings ....very organised for me!
Four samples:
1 - 240 grit sand, shellac (thin coat), light sand, then applied a coat Brown jarrah (brush..not a good brush) - don't mind a bit of the hue of shellac coming through however will need a further light sand and diluted coat of stain before approaching any final finish layers.
Attachment 25475
2 - 240 grit sand, proof sealer (now did a sand on this - some say don't but I opted to) coat of shellac, light sand, coat of brown japan (brushed on)
Attachment 25476
For each of these there will be quite of bit of sanding required to achieve a very smooth finish and invest in a good quality brush or using of a lint free cloth for application.
3 - 240 grit sand, tint directly applied (far out this wood is like a sponge), light buff then...yep tried a rough free hand dremel. The wood doesn't have too clunky a texture to dremel on however steadiness of hand is needed as the wood can burr a bit. Haven't done a light sand over yet.
Attachment 25477
4 - 240 grit sand and then boiled linseed oil..(oh I did place this section over a flame to see if it would enhance colour and texture of wood..was marginal.

I'm guessing that you are using Feast Watson stains, so yep, Basswood totally drinks that stuff when applied direct, but thankfully it doesn't usually drink it too deep.

Love the dremel work. Hopefully you'll be able to seal it in like that without the stain drifting into your crafty artistry...

Thanks Marcel :) ...I couldn't believe how the wood soaked the stain up (Feast and Watson)...going to try a few other stain colours and techniques as thinking the dark stain may be too heavy, mind you I do like the contrast you get with engrave. avoiding stain fill will be hard, so going to hunt around for best product to work with. Any thoughts? also might be crazy but going to do a test swatch with filling engrave in a contrast colour...far out...I think I'm crazy sometimes. :)

OK...I may have gone a bit out there and this is only first paint (swatch) ...but the dremel pic stained in earlier thread I have sanded back, then engraved again with slightly larger burr, diluted brown jarrah (light wipe on) when dry sanded again with a 400 over dremel, 240 and then 320 then 400 remaining body. Reason I didn't go higher is more I'm still testing effects. I then applied an oil sky blue with a tiny brush..to see effect and do love the contrast of blues and browns..thoughts? am I crazy.. :) Attachment 25509

OK...I may have gone a bit out there and this is only first paint (swatch) ...but the dremel pic stained in earlier thread I have sanded back, then engraved again with slightly larger burr, diluted brown jarrah (light wipe on) when dry sanded again with a 400 over dremel, 240 and then 320 then 400 remaining body. Reason I didn't go higher is more I'm still testing effects. I then applied an oil sky blue with a tiny brush..to see effect and do love the contrast of blues and browns..thoughts? am I crazy.. :) Attachment 25509