Sonics second build - The Major Mitchell Relliecaster

25.5" = 647.7 mm and based on that photo there wouldn't be much meat left on the high E & B intonation screw and same goes on the shorter low E & A screw too.

If considering upgrading bridge PUP the hole will need to be enlarged in several directions and this also helps to bring the bridge plate a little closer to the pick guard edge, but not entirely so that it fits like the control plate.

Scale length is so important on Tele's where it is challenging enough having 2 strings sharing the same bridge saddle. Best to make sure there is enough fore & aft travel to allow for proper intonation.

Thanks Waz, yeah I am wary of changing anything. It looks like its very much a game of averages to get the intonation right on these anyway with that bridge setup.

Here is a better picture with less lens distortion. This is with the Pickup hard up against the cavity route. To me it looks like the High E and B adjustment would be very close to the thread to sit at 647.7 in its current position. Its currently wound way back as I was trying to see how far I could adjust before the spring became too compressed and started to bind. From this picture it looks to me like I could safely move it to the 'left' 5mm, which would actually give me more meat for that adjuster to grab onto the screw. Even looking at the low E and A string, if I move it forward there is probably 8-10mm of intonation adjustment available before the spring would start binding.

https://i.imgur.com/OnrFlMDl.jpg

I feel like I'm probably going to go ahead and do it. Even if I only move up 2.5-3 mm I'd like to enlarge the cavity a bit so the pickup doesn't sit right up against it.

Most folks find they have to open up that bridge cavity a bit, especially if you use upgraded pick ups

Yeah, when I drew up the PBG offset I put an extra 2mm all the way around as it just seemed too tight. Its covered by the enormous bridge plate so it seems sensible. I also moved it forward 3mm on that design as the adjustment at seemed too far towards the neck. I measured and re-measured in the design software and at that scale length I definitely feel like the route is too far south in the existing TL kit.

So I'll change this one and if it stuffs it up so be it, sometimes you need to muck things up to really learn your lesson:) I'm not going o upgrade this one much as its going to a learner who won't be picky. Saving my pennies for the next couple of builds which will feature some much more interesting hardware and electronics.

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Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain

Yeah, when I drew up the PBG offset I put an extra 2mm all the way around as it just seemed too tight. Its covered by the enormous bridge plate so it seems sensible. I also moved it forward 3mm on that design as the adjustment at seemed too far towards the neck. I measured and re-measured in the design software and at that scale length I definitely feel like the route is too far south in the existing TL kit.

So I'll change this one and if it stuffs it up so be it, sometimes you need to muck things up to really learn your lesson:) I'm not going o upgrade this one much as its going to a learner who won't be picky. Saving my pennies for the next couple of builds which will feature some much more interesting hardware and electronics.

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You have picked up on the common design fault with Tele kits. As for the bridge I have replaced with a reasonably priced 6 saddle one from Real Parts which is top loaded and that helps with getting a more accurate intonation.

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Small update on this one. Still very time poor.

One of the things that has really annoyed me with the TL kits is the shape of the top horn. I've noticed it in a few builds, on here. The curve transition from the neck to the top horn is horrible with a 'peak' in what should be a smooth curve.

So fixing that was first order of business. I just used 180grit in the power sander to smooth it off. I actually think it needs just a little more and I'll be happy.

Before:

https://i.imgur.com/u6SJKXel.jpg

After:

https://i.imgur.com/MiFTsoJl.jpg

I also increased the bridge PUP route. Its a bit of a hatchet job as I don't have a router atm, so I used my dremel renovator, which works great, but can be a bit agricultural. The good news it that I am much happier with the bridge to pick guard gap and I'm still well within intonation adjustments.

https://i.imgur.com/YqGuPRsl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/uuSj2p4l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/NxnJpBQl.jpg

Bit more progress, bolted the neck on, made sure everything lined up, marked and drilled all the pilot holes. First coat of primer....

Oh also shaped the headstock, will take a better pic later.

https://i.imgur.com/DNNWkREl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/D1eoQT0l.jpg

Sonic a bit of a tip don't drill anything till its painted when you wet sand and if you get the smallest amount of water in the holes it swells up and bugger's up a good paint job bear that in mind when you start the polishing process :-)

Yeah that actually happened on the my first build and I've been tossing up how to get around it. I'm paranoid of wrecking the polished surface if I drill after. The second time I cut back I was very careful about where water went and it worked OK, but I might try the drill after painting approach with the next one.

tooth picks fill those small screw holes nicely