Mike's build #2: STA-1

Thanks all. I've plug the neck plate holes and will try again this weekend.

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Ok I plugged the neck plate holes, and redrilled. Pretty happy with the neck position.

Also screwed up the bridge placement first time round, after drilling I realised I was off centre by 3mm and the E string was too close to the edge of the fretboard. So much for measure twice, cut once. Measure thrice!!!

Anyway I assembled everything and it looks ok, now I can begin sanding this week :)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...41aef030a1.jpg

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Small update, just sanding at the moment when I can. Almost got all the machine marks out. The horns and the changes in grain direction are not easy, so it is slow going. I rushed this process last time so will not do the same this time. The plan is to sand to 220, grain fill, sand and sand down to 400 before staining can begin.



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Looks nice! You are right, prep is everything!

Ok all, it's been a while since my last update - long Christmas break, but a dug out the body this weekend for some grain filling! I had sanded to 220 last time.

I've never done this before, so let's see how we go

Using ebony timber mate, I diluted with water till consistency was like mayonnaise, but ended up being a bit less viscous than that (too much water!!). I then brushed it on as thin as I could, scraping off excess as I went.

Hanging up to dry - it'll be actually 48 hours before I get to sand back and see what happens.

How can I tell if I need another go of the timbermate? And have I put too much on? What grit do you all start with - is 80 too coarse? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...04a1d011b2.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c2facab4dc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...37c913f3ac.jpg

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The idea of the Timbermate is to fill the grain so you end up with a flat surface with no dips after sanding back. If you've still got dips because of the grain, you need to decide whether to keep them as a feature, (quite a few ash kit builds on here haven't gone for ultra-smooth) or whether to do another coat of Timbermate if you want a more Fender-like flat surface finish.

Simon's right, there. you'll need to sand that timbermate back....I think you got all the holes mike!

I usually sand it back a fair bit so just the large grain has the ebony timbermate popping it. I would start with 180 then go 240 grit to get it off. I usually do not sand the body with a lower grit than that when i'm going to oil it so theres a bit of "tooth" for the oil to grab a hold of.

You'll still find that when you oil it up, the oil will sink into the large grain unevenly. quite a few layers need to be put on and sanded down before you get it the type of flat Simon is talking about there.

Me personally I prefer it with the grain ripples and a thinner finish, but its up to you Mike.

Great job so far.

Thanks Andy and Simon,

I have definitely used enough timbermate...started sanding away and it looks nice! Will send some pics later tonight



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OK sanding went well, stained it and started the true oil process. Nice and slow, very thin coats twice a day. No rush here at all, taking my time. Will do a super light sand with 600 (or even a 0000 steel wool) every 6 coats - unless there's a better way? Kinda going off YouTube tutorials for this one...

I think I'll go back to dingotone next build, much prefer the smell of DT over this stuff and the stain. Glad I tried it though!

The different segments of timber seem to take the stain differently... The timber on the side of the high e string is a darker shade than the timber on the other side. Not sure if that's me or the timber. The colour is growing on me though. And there's no point trying to hide the fact its 4 pieces of timber, I'll just highlight it. Embrace the character ;) https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...12bef8ae70.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...9e6ebe166c.jpg

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The timber variation seems pretty standard. Some nice patterning there.