I used clear acrylic from that place that must remain nameless over the DT on my Tuff Dog project, works just fine
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I used clear acrylic from that place that must remain nameless over the DT on my Tuff Dog project, works just fine
Correct Andy. The decal instructions (Rothko & Frost) say it will not work on bare wood and a lacquer substrate is needed. So, Plan 'B' is to D/T the whole thing, clear lacquer over that and then apply the decal - with a top coat of lacquer, just as per the instructions.
sounds good Vox. Definitely worth a sealer coat or 2 over the decal at the end. Dave King thinks there should be no issues with clear acrylic and DT
I'd just give the DT quite a while to dry out first so that any oils in it have evaporated.
Simon's right at least a week (maybe a bit more) for the DT to cure, then spray the base coasts apply the decal, then top coats over the decal before wet sand polishing.
Thanks dave.king1! Is there an emoticon for a self inflicted smack on the head?:o
The project is PB4-A (ash body) finished in Nullarbor Ochre with Acacia neck. I am attempting to emulate a '50s Precision Bass. I had assumed that Bloodwood would be a red finish, so went for Acacia. One stain coat has given me a very yellow colour :( Is there any way to get to the vintage amber, or would Bloodwood still do the trick? :confused:
Hey Vox, so you want to go from yellow to amber ? What DT stains have you got nullarbor ochore and acacia, I would try mixing some NB into the acacia and do a small test on some scrap wood and adjust the mix till you get a suitable amber colour.
Thanks Wokka!. Just gave it a try, probably 40/60 Ochre/Acacia. Sanded off a fair bit of the Acacia, but the wood had a distinctly yellow effect however, I'm getting closer to the amber that I would have preferred.
Must send a note to Adam suggesting pics of the DT neck finishes, instead of the bottles. Would make life easier for us artistically challenged peeps! :o