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Any colour on binding will risk being removed if it is not locked in with a clear over.
Another option might be timber binding harder to put on, but if you got a really light coloured timber you could stain or paint it just about any colour you wanted and i think it would adhere better
Or you could order a body not routed for biding at all and do it with paint or pinstriping.
Thanks again Waz for your information. Really appreciate it allthough you made me doubting again on what would be to best approach. Perhaps I should go for finishing the body itself and just see how it looks like.
Perhaps something like this could be an option for you?
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5pcs-Cell...YAAOSwkNZUavig
Or this , if you need a plainer look..
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/3-Red-ABS...kAAOSw91NTt1cz
@ Zandit, great ideas but not sure I'd be up for the challenge. Big job if you were new to kit building.
@ Kick, pin striping would be the easiest..... maybe something like this? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/6mm-x-9-8...3D322197999740
Attachment 17496
Thanks Zandit75! Those bindings looks great but as Waz is saying, it would be a challenge for me as a first time kit builder.
And I just ordered my LP-1MQ kit! Can't wait for it to arrive :)
This might be a more relevant thread to put my questions from my Silent guitar thread.
Does anyone know if you can change the binding on a neck without removing any frets?
Also, what glue is best to use for installing binding against timber?
It will depend on the fret ends.
If they fall short of the binding, no dramas.
If they sit over the binding it is more of a challenge, mainly due to access to the route for removing the old glue. Can be done but is a major pain in the butt, so, generally speaking it is easier to remove the frets.
Another challenge is getting the binding to sit snugly under the fret ends...
There are a few glues you can use for binding. I use a thick CA glue and picture framers tape to hold the binding in place.
You can also use good ole Tarzans grip but you will need to leave it for at least 24 hours before removing the tape.
Some folk use acetone, but this takes some practice to get it right.
Pro tip: When you finish, you may see a few gaps. Don't panic!
All you need to do is melt some binding in acetone and use it as a filler.
Let it dry for at least 12 hours and then scrape the binding flush.
stewmac.com has plenty of options, binding wise - with the usual $ conversion & postage waiting times - may be some options you can live with.
http://www.stewmac.com/Materials_and...ding_and_Trim/