It's an auto paint called candy coat in candy apple red. It's a see thru coating and shouldn't hide the grain (So I'm told)
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It's an auto paint called candy coat in candy apple red. It's a see thru coating and shouldn't hide the grain (So I'm told)
no worries Salo, I would be spraying a piece of scrap wood while you spray the body, get some pine or something with some grain and I'd see how it looks after the 2nd coat. It appears in the photo some of the flame maple is covered after one coat
I rubbed the first coat back with 0000 steel wool to smooth out the coat and applied a second coat. Looking so much better.
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The grain has come up so much nicer. I'm in a bit of a quandary about the neck. I've stained the neck a maple colour with F&W and intend for the face to be black. But now I'm thinking doing the back of the neck in the same red. I think my colour co-ordination isn't so great. What do you folk think?
I'm probably the worst person to ask because I love maple necks and natural wood headstocks! That said, I just looked at the Gretsch on my wall and the neck matching the body (with a black headstock face) looks pretty damn good. I can see yours working well like that too.
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Thanks chuck that looks great. I will follow suit. The red colour is to represent my battalion colours that I served with in Vietnam. I plan on some other features to represent my service.
Cool - can't wait to see it all come together!Quote:
Originally Posted by Salo
I've preped the neck and this how it came up after 2 coats
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Just when I thought I was on the last colour coat. I've applied the 3rd coat on the body and took off the masking on the binding.
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But that's not where it ends. I scrapped the binding. There was very little to scrap off. Just when I was scrapping the F hole binding (couldn't mask), the blade slipped in one place and left a scratch line in the body colour near the centre of the left F hole. So I thought that's not a problem, I'll just touch it up with a dab of paint. But, shock horror gasp, the dab of paint melted the colour coat in the spot back to bare wood. I'll leave it to dry and try to figure out what to do next to fix it.
Just thought I would share a product I found for masking that doesn't allow any bleeding under the tape.
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I used it for the binding and the only scrapping I had to do was on a couple of little spots. Where I used it on the head stock, it left a nice straight line without bleeding like the blue tape.
Little repair like that are the realm of an air brush. You can buy them cheap on ebay and then wonder how you got by without one for so long. It usually takes me longer to clean the dam thing that it does to do the repair LOL