Andy40's ES-1G Build

Alright, so I am a bit embarrassed...... but I don't have an ego so I don't mind sharing my idiocy on the interweb.

I know there's no excuses but....... I was looking after the kids at the time out the back, and in having to save them numerous times from killing themselves, in between I got to whittle some dowling to plug the stoptail routs and glueing them in (titebond), however...

anyone spot what i did wrong here....

Attachment 10782

So anyone got any ides how to get them out? I know I can drill again but the routs are perfect for the PBG bridge....

hey Andy, you worried one of the dowels is too low ?
If they are glued with titebond think you just need to drill it out and have another crack

what's the reason for the plugs, you got a bridge with different post spacings ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wokkaboy

hey Andy, you worried one of the dowels is too low ?
If they are glued with titebond think you just need to drill it out and have another crack

what's the reason for the plugs, you got a bridge with different post spacings ?

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Yeah so I didn't need to plug the bridge because i'm using a PBG bridge, I needed to plug the tailpiece holes as im putting on a trapeze, I also got them upside down so one is higher than the other (one hole was deeper).

I thought i may have to drill, I just didn't know if there was some steamy super method to yank them out?

D'OH! That reminds me of the time that I drilled the mounting hole for a miniswitch. I need to use a 5/8" inch forstner bit to get the switch body to the right depth, but only a 1/4" for the through hole. You come up with some interesting swearwords when you get that around the wrong way.

Lol nice one FW. When I came out the next day to "move on" with the build...I just sat there stunned at what i had done. The swear words came after.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Andy40

Lol nice one FW. When I came out the next day to "move on" with the build...I just sat there stunned at what i had done. The swear words came after.

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Yep, know the feeling as that often happens when you have too many things on the go.

Not sure steam would be good for the top and that really leaves drilling out as the safest option. I know our steam mop has a small nozzle for using on stoves and bench tops and getting into small nooks and crannies but I would not be brave enough to emit that amount of heat and water anywhere near the main face of a guitar.

Yeah, fair nuff Waz. I was worried what the steam may do the the veneer. I'll clamp up the drill guide again and drill them out.

Ok slowly moving through this build too. Its been a while since posts.

I had to re-glue a bit of the top as it had come away
Attachment 11107
I have used my drill guide contraption yet again to redrill the pine dowels from the saddle mounting holes and have fashioned two new pine dowels and glued them in to the stop tail holes. sanded down flush. sanded the body quite well (since i don't need to worry about the veneer - strangely liberating). Body has been neutral timber mated.

I have checked the centreline of the guitar with the neck and the scale length, all okay. However, the neck needs a bit of work though.
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from what I can tell, I need to do the following:-
1. Fix up the headstock shaping;
2. glue some maple shim I have fashioned and sand back to close the gap on the underside of the neck join (the top side neck join fits perfectly);
3. file the neck heel a bit better and work out whether I am going to put an extension on the heel join for a nicer joint to the body;
4. fix the back bow;
5. do a fret jobby and replace the plastic nut;
6. drill out the plastic inlays and replace with MOP;
7. prepare and paint the neck;
8. set the neck.

Fret leveling and re-crowning week....
Attachment 11233Attachment 11234Attachment 11235

Care package arrived from adam today!!!!!

Attachment 12416

Yaaaay, Tonerider Rebel 90's for this build, bone nut and a bunch of Ernie Ball 10's to restring a few of my guitars.

P.S. I really should do something about this build, its been sitting around for a while.