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I go bone for tone...but I'm biased
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OK so bone for tone.......now for the big questions.....
Colour.......wudtone, dig tone or colour tone............wanted to keep the grain and quite like the colour tone surf green type colour of a dark azure blue??????? ahhhhh.....the choices.......
maybe i should just tru oil the neck and leave it as that........
Question: Grain filler.....what stage should i be applying this........after the 320 grit sand or later........
Got some timber mate.......a light colour as i think i may go darker on the stain.....does this make sense..???
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Dig tone? Bwahahahahahaha!
Must add that to the list :)
Dingtone
Dungotone
Dig tone.
Luv it!
With grain fill, I usually sand to 220 then grain fill and sand through the grits to no more than 320.
Neutral Timbermate is good as it allows you to colour it for grain popping or you can leave it neutral and stain away.
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Does the type of bone make a difference? I've seen some on Amazon that say they are cattle bone - what other kinds are used?
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Hi BMB,
Regarding the colour, thats completely up to you. Personally, if you can get the colour you want from Dingotone, I'd get that (at least as a stain). Its non-toxic, smells great and its easliy applied and if you have any questions, just ask DB. I've not bothered ordering any colortone or wudtone, I think you would need to order that from overseas and get it cleared through customs. Maybe one of the other guys can let you know.
Regarding the grain filler, as its solid ash (not a veneer), you can sand to your hearts content then apply timbermate then sand again. I'd probably do what DB suggested. The colour of the timbermate is up to you. What I have done in the past is get a scrap piece of pine, sand it, fill it with different timbermate colours, then apply the stain you want to see what effect it has on the grain.
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Daily update......After rupturing my ACL and Medial ligaments yesterday at football training it looks like the project will getting my undivided attention......Initial sanding has been completed on the Body and neck.....up to P320 grit....
I have dampened and resanded the neck (Whiskering) i think its called......amazing how the fibres stand up.....
Just grain filled with a wet timber mate mix and will wait for that to dry until tomorrow......
Neck and headstock has been given two coats of Tru Oil ( Bought from The Gun Emporium ) in Tullamarine, Melbourne (Sorry DB)....
Questions:
Can i use a random orbital sander to do the initial sand back of the grain filler or should i hand sand with the grain using P240?
What colour should i stain this baby??? I am thinking a dark blue or a green?
Has anyone used a Tru Oil conditioning sheen oil as a final finish on the neck?
Should i be treating the fretboard or not?
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If your going to treat the fret board I'd use Dingo wax, again, I'm biased. I've used other conditioners and I just prefer the look and feel of Dingowax. We had this discussion on another thread recently, but I can't remember which one. Tonyw pointed out that the fretboards probably don't need conditioning at all aside from their natural oils and recommended a once in a while clean with something...sorry I can't remember what it was. If he doesn't follow this thread, shoot him a PM.
Pablopepper will pitch a tent regarding your use of tru-oil on the neck. I think its his preferred method of finish on the neck, I believes he sands it back to get a satin finish or something like that, I don't think he uses Tru Oil conditioning sheen oil, but again If he doesn't follow this thread, shoot him a PM.
I do ALL of my sanding by hand, to make sure its with the grain. Yeah it takes longer, but you get to talk to it and luv luv long time.
Stain is up to you. You can do what ever you want and well, if you don't like it, sand it back later and re-stain a different colour.
Good luck mate.
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Thanks Andy, really getting into this.....just ordered a wilkinson bridge and a bone nut.......will preservers with the hand sanding to take off the grain filler........aaahhh the joy.....probably need another bottle of Bookers Noe's for the task......
Thinking of a cabot blue or green......although i have heard of people watering down a printer ink and i have seen some bloody awesome results on a telecaster forum.....somewhere.......
i suppose i need to think about sealing the stain once it is done and i am happy with it....
now i better think about steel wool on the neck......three very light coats of try oil so far......how many coats before i should polish it up.....read somewhere about 6 or 7 !!!!
Anyway back to the bourbon......
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Defs more Booker Noes, I just put a wilkinson compensated bridge on my TLA-1R and theres a bit of discussion there regarding the scale length. check it out before you drill the holes for the bridge.
Are you considering a string through? again I tackled this in my TLA-1R without a drill press.
Regarding the TO, I used it on my LP-1SS. I probably wouldn't put more on than 6 or 7 then wait for a while before sanding back. I use the micromesh pads for polishing the TO, it was about $14 for a heap of sample grades and they are the business.
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Its only rosewood etc i dont condition, other than a quick wipe with a bit of pure lemon oil, maple fretboards i usually use whatever i am fishing the neck with, e:g polyu etc
