Baking pedals

Nice find Fretty, will save stuffing around with biscuit board and point to point wiring

And following through the links available as a kit in Oz for less than the current exchange rate
http://www.pedalempire.com.au/collec.../lazy-sprocket

Either would be cheaper than the $400+ that second hand Slow Gears go for on eBay!

Gotta love DIY pedals!

Half of why I'm learning :D

Enclosure is now drilled and I'll be painting it ASAP. Not sure on design yet. .. Might just keep it simple. Post pics when I get home tomorrow

http://i.imgur.com/xH8uDqU.jpg

*reposting image because Beavis website is down*

Hey guys,

Just trouble shooting the pedal. Hooked it up to the amp but Im not getting bypass signal so something is up. Pulled out the MM and started following the signal. Going from 9v jack to the b10k pot, Im' getting full signal across 3/2 lugs which is good.

Following the signal from the 9v jack to the LED, I'm getting full signal all the way through until it goes from the LED's cathode leg to the footswitch. Should this be or should i have signal to the footswitch too? This is with switch on/off. The LED isn;t lighting up either.

Check the wiring of the 3PDT switch. Have the poles been soldered correctly?

Ok, that drawing is just confusing...

From your text, when you say "Following the signal from the 9v jack to the LED, I'm getting full signal all the way through until it goes from the LED's cathode leg to the footswitch." do you mean you are following the 9 +ve? If so, then as it is a DC circuit and it gets to a diode (LED) and stops makes me think of a couple of things, coupled with "the LED isn't lighting":

1. Diode is reverse biased, that is to say it is in backwards - that will stop DC every time, coz that's what diodes do.

2. The resistor just prior to the LED is Open Circuit (i.e. busted).

3. The LED is Open Circuit.

First up, disconnect the power and set the DMM to ohms and measure the resistor. It should be as per its advertised value.

Next, plug the power back in and measure the voltage available at the 9v jack. According to the image the centre lug should be 0v and the left hand lug +9v. Make sure this isn't back to front - that is make sure the plug pack isn't wired wrong.

Next again with the power off, and using the ohm meter measure across the LED. In one direction it should be open (infinite Ω) and the other it should be 0 Ω.

Then make sure it is wired in the right way...

I hope this helps.

Thanks for the advice guys. Can't do any more on this until the weekend but here's a picture of how the 3pdt is wired - it looks okay to me but I'm pretty nooby.

http://i.imgur.com/KuHHUYg.jpg?1

Ummm After having a look at some other descriptions of this beast, the drawing has become even more confusing.

It appear that it is drawn from a component layout view but shows the components from underneath. Kind of like an xray view. Or is it?

In other words, it is not clear that the switch wiring (for example) should match the drawing - it may need to be a mirror reflection. As if you were looking down from above the switch.

It might help if you could point out the three common terminals on the switch.

Why don't guitar "electronics" people just make circuit diagrams? It is too easy to misinterpret sketches.

So I just did a little experiment with the LED, a 2.2k resistor and a 9v current.

The DC jack only has 2 pins as I'm not using a battery on this. One pin is long one pin is short.

When I attached the anode to the short pin, I got no life in the LED

When I attached the anode to the long pin, the LED came to life

Now i'm wondering - does the LED have reversed polarity or have I flipped the 9v jack wiring?