The back. One primer coat and then sanded back because I decided some of the end grain was a bit rough in places. Wood filler re-applied and sanded back. Next up tape and more primer spraying.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...Primer_on1.jpg
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The back. One primer coat and then sanded back because I decided some of the end grain was a bit rough in places. Wood filler re-applied and sanded back. Next up tape and more primer spraying.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...Primer_on1.jpg
glad to see it is moving ahead
Can I confirm that the veneer ripped out when removing the tape?Quote:
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from jay0417 on July 28, 2014, 17:59
Some more pictures... Taped up ready for primer (this is super low tack tape) and next the hole it ripped into the veneer. Look how it was already splitting elsewhere...
IF this is so, I am less surprised than when I first read about the issue. This is a common issue with acoustic builders when they apply tape to keep binding in place. You not only need to use low tack tape, but you should also rub the 'sticky' side on to your jeans or clothes to make it less tacky. Then, when you want to remove it, you need to slowly and carefully remove the tape by taking one end and drawing it back on itself (like you were going to fold it in half). If you do it any other way you are going to get issues like you did.
The veneer split way before I ever applied tape. If you have a close look at the picture you will see cracks in the veneer where no tape was applied. That's where the glue underneath let go or wasn't there to begin with and the slightest amount of moisture made it "bubble up". So while the tape could have made the problem worse, the bond of the veneer wasn't as it should have been to begin with... The tape that was touching the veneer was extremely low tack transfer tape. I have used that stuff to mask of cardboard on foam core before without a problem. The green stuff was only touching the binding. That's 3mm automotive tape. I wouldn't dare put that on wood!
First a correction on one of my earlier messages. The green tape in the photo is NOT 3mm automotive tape. That's just low tack painters tape. Even so, it's not touching the wood. The procedure I follow is this:
1) tape off binding with 5mm auto tape.
2) cover the body (fromt) with transfer tape (that stuff is extremely low tack.
3) use low tack painter tape to cover the auto tape and fold over to form a seal between the transfer tape on front and auto tape on side (binding).
I had a bunch of crack to repair this weekend. I went to my local luthier for advice, or rather confirm that my decided upon tactic would work. He was surprised by the amount of damage to the veneer. He mentioned that the veneer seemed EXTREMELY thin (thinner than he'd ever seen) and also noticed that all the cracks were on one side of the guitar. Strange, considering that if you glue down veneer you will by definition, almost always, push the glue to the sides. We concluded that in the factory they simply must not have used enough glue in that particular spot/side of the guitar. Anyway, the cracks started forming (and the veneer curling off the body) while applying TimberMate with much less than the recommended amount of water. TimberMate being arguably the most gentle woodworking product in the world, the factory definitely made an oops.
Anyway, I used a syringe (yeah a real one with a needle and everything -- hard to come by if you are not a drug addict -- no really) filled with superglue to push under the veneer. Some of these splits/curl ups were really delicate and while lifting off the wood underneath, left no crack and thus no other way then to apply the glue "subcutaneously". Yes I actually injected glue into the guitar.
I even remembered that I had saved the big chip that came off...
While I am not a big fan of this kind of repair work, guss what, I do sorta have a knack for it, if I may say so myself.
Now, besides from a mid coat clear, the front is done until I properly prime the back and swirl it.
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...-IMG_20811.JPG
All cracks fixed and mid coat clear applied now. Time to get back onto the back.
good stuff Jeroen, look forward to seeing it progress and more pics
I have been a bit silent (though not on the Pink Guitar's Facebook page) but that doesn't mean I have not been doing anything on the Pink LP. I am working on practicing my swirling. I don't quite feel up to dipping the Pink Lady into a bucket of water (but I am getting there) but I am hoping to get the "Understudy" into the swimming pool tomorrow. The understudy is a crappy Samick I bought for 50 bucks just to test some of the paint processes.
I got a good size garbage bin, Enough borax to clean the Sydney sewer, an aquarium heater to keep the water temp. just so, plenty of EXPENSIVE enamel paint (and the proper thinners) and quite a few practice runs under my belt.
Some of the "tester strips"...
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...38896838_n.jpg
Tests are looking great Jeroen. Roll on the Sammick!
cheers,
Gav.