TLA-1 - first kit

nice Tele style shape, that worked out pretty well.

Welcome and enjoy

In terms of what to do with the fretboard - keep an eye on DB's build diary for his little bro to the bass and work out his questions, then a little package may wing it's way towards you... (http://www.pitbullguitars.com/commun...topic&t=1304.9). Alternatively, you could use an oil like Lem Oil or Dr Ducks Axe Wax to finish off the fretboard. Both are generally available from most music stores. Having used both, they are both pretty straightforward to use. Generally though sanding is minimal on the fretboards. If you're feeling adventurous though, it is possible to replace fret dots with shell - see http://www.pitbullguitars.com/commun...iewtopic&t=998.

Thanks for the heads up Brendan, DB's through body build will be something that I will keep my eye on.

I think i will keep the standard fret dots, not feeling quite that adventurous.

One coat of the dark amber in and it's really brought the grain out nicely; although the color is a bit darker than I was expecting, so I'm not sure how many more coats I will put on it. I might just do the one more, but I can't see myself doing any more than 3 (and that at a stretch).

I just spotted a bit of what could be a grease mark to the left of the bridge pickup cavity. Any tips for getting it off?
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...i9o3-image.jpg

Hi guys,

I need some advice/help with this - i tried a mock up assembly (I now know I should have done this first) and it seems that there are a couple of (potential) issues with how things fit together on the body.
There seems to be a 1cm approx gap between the pick guard and the bridge and the base of the neck when I thought it was all supposed to be basically flush.

Have I missed something?

Also the slot for the neck in the pick guard is too narrow.
Should I just widen it up? Any suggestions for how? My hunch would be to use a Stanley knife or similar.

Cheers

Hi Tom,
yes a mock build should be done first thing but you haven't gone too far with the build.
With the grease mark on the body, this could be glue or even grease from your skin. Will it be covered with the pickguard? If not think you have to sand back these areas and rub a wet cloth over until there is no evidence. Use say a 320 grit paper so you can apply your next dark amber coat over it.
Most of the tele kits the bridge pup cavity is a bit too far south, so if you don't have a router you can enlarge the cavity about 5mm toward the neck. Some forum people have drilled small holes, then chiselled the rough out. It will be covered by the bridge plate.
With the neck heel does that fit all the way in the neck pocket ? If not you will need to sand off small amounts of each side of the neck heel till it fits. Sand off small amounts and do a test fit.
Often the pickguards need widening around the neck. Don't use a sharp blade, use a fairly fine hand file and again test regularly so you don't take off too much material.
Maybe if you can please post photos will make these issues clearer

Thanks for the quick reply.

I wasn't aware of that issue with the bridge pup cavity, it's some comfort that others have gone before.

As below it looks like I will have to drill and chisel, as I don't have a router. I guess then my main concern is to make sure the bridge remains square.

The neck fits in fine, the only issue was with how it fits into the pick guard.


http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...jxez-image.jpg

Before you start drilling and/or chiseling you should clamp the neck in place and measure out your scale length to ensure you get the bridge in the correct position. If you just use the pickguard as your guide you could end up with the bridge being too far forward.

good point Scott, the dimensions of the ash kits may vary to the alder kits which needed routing the bridge cavity.
Tom maybe if you can please do what Scott suggested and post the dimensions nut to 12th fret and 12th fret to both outside saddles. cheers

Tom, there's also typically a gap between the pickguard and the bridge of a couple of mm... Without ever building a Tele - (so more than likely wrong), it looks like you need to move the bridge back a bit... Scott and Wokks have given some good advice - getting the bridge in the right place is the critical bit here. If it's wrong, you won't be able to intonate it, which means it will never be fully in tune.
Photo of a Fender tele - showing the gap.
http://ts2.mm.bing.net/th?id=HN.6079...232672&pid=1.7