Thank you all for the help I will post replies and further info as soon as I finish boring house chores ie feeding kids ;)
Regards
Budi
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Thank you all for the help I will post replies and further info as soon as I finish boring house chores ie feeding kids ;)
Regards
Budi
My apologies PKQuote:
/<\\/p>[/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/]<\\/p>/Quote from kells80aus on May 30, 2014, 18:44
This really Sux. 3 times I have posted This is a SET Neck....
PK
I am sure most will agree that the neck set up is the same for a set neck or bolt on in terms of getting the neck straight and aligned with the body and getting the inclination of the neck right.
As my posting came directly from a previous page that i had posted I simply cut and pasted that information which dealt with both set necks and bolt on necks with the intention of editing the 'bolt on' parts out of the posting. Unfortunately, during this process a client (relating to my real job) came in and my focus was diverted.
I'm sorry you were offended.
Hi Gav. No not offeneded, at anyone. I was frustrated at having to post the same comment 3 times. the comment actually preceeded your cut and paste. and even 1 of Budi's PK :D
Hi Budi.
I took this pic to illustrate that by gently sanding the back of the heal that it will close that 2mm gap. I sanded this one down by about 1.5 mm so that the angled neck tapers to the square neck slot.
Cheers PK
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con..._113535sml.jpg
G'day PK,
Thanks you for your help, sorry haven't been doing anything on this project re DC JR, Have been busy helping my boys with their school works etc.
But my plan of attacks (if I have the time) are:
1. To sand/square the heel end of the neck as you suggest, also to give me a little play later on for intonation.
2. To sink the bridge posts a mill or so into the body to lower the string height. And probably sand the bottom of the neck heel to give a slight angle.
Anyway I'll post some more pics as I progressed, just to make sure I am heading in the right direction.
Again PK and others thanks you for your help.
Regards
Budi
Hi Budi.
If you go with the sinking of the posts you need a decent sized drill press.
When I did it I used a 12 mm short broken drill bit I had, to centre and clamp the body in place.
I then swapped the short broken drill for a 15mm Forsner bit and I set my drill press to only dril in about 2mm that way I kept the work accurate, and not having the posts sitting at differnet heights when the work is done.
Cheers PK
Hi Budi, I took these to show you that there is always some work to do on Kits.
PK
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...psy-002sml.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...psy-001sml.jpg
G'Day PK,Quote:
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from kells80aus on June 10, 2014, 10:37
Hi Budi, I took these to show you that there is always some work to do on Kits.
PK
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...psy-002sml.jpg
http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...psy-001sml.jpg
You're right, :? how much gap you got on that kit?
Anyways I managed to close the gap between the neck and the body on kit. And I might ask my in-law to make me a drill bit similar to Forsner drill bit as you suggest. But make it a 13mm instead of 15mm bit.
Another question If I may ask, how much prep do you do before applying sanding sealer (ie Feast Watson)?
Thanks a ton PK for your help.
Budi
Hi Budi
you can see the diagonal across the butt of the neck(which is upside down) It's about 2mm
I haven't checked the bridge clearance yet. as the fretboard is right down on the body. I will probably have to sand the base of the heal a little to raise the angle.
I've been too busy with the "Mellow Yellow" one to do much with this kit.
Cheers PK
Always give it a sanding before you put sealer on. It just makes it easier to level off the body after the sealer has dried, other wise you end up doing a lot of sanding to get it smooth.
If you intend to apply a stain then a sealer is probably not a good idea as it may prevent the stain soaking into the timber. If you intend using a solid colour on top of the sealer then the object of the sealer is so the wood doesn't soak up all the colour.
Just makes it easier to strip back to clean wood if you have sealer on it.
I had sealed my ES335 kit and inteneded to apply a water based stain. Because I had used an oil based sealer the stain would not take to the timber. In the end I used red tinted Shellac on that build.
That guitar is still a Pig of a thing. It plays nice but has a 1/2mm gap under each fret. some one had bent the fret to the wrong arc wehn they installed the frets.
But as it plays OK and I don't have the tools to refret it. I'll just leave it this way till I can get hold of the tools I need. It's just a $100 I don't have right now.
Cheers PK