Yea, add them as extras??? Cause there's a wiring diagram that I want to try out with a LP...
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Yea, add them as extras??? Cause there's a wiring diagram that I want to try out with a LP...
It would be better to have them as standard supply Callum, that way you don't end up paying for perfectly good pickups that you wont be using especially where folk like me and DB and others prefer to coil split as a standard feature...
Actually, yea, stock 4-conductors would be better
Hi everyone - my ES 1G arrived today and I have been sitting pondering on how to complete the wiring also - what a lovely conundrum, I love a challenge - the LP was challenging enough but I am glad I have been through that before I tackled this....my view is to complete the wiring outside the cavity but using the same technique (ie pots in the cardboard frame) and then feed the whole lot through the f - the only thing that I will need advice on (I believe) do I feed a line through each hole to the relevant pot and then pull them through when the soldering is finished.....my laymans view on this Gav/DB....??
Pete (aka Pedro)
Hi Pete
Seems DB and Adam might be a while in the video making process still. I might do a tutorial on this.
Couple of comments though based on your post.
Tried the pots arrangement on cardboard / perspex in my case, but this proved problematic as Wokka, DB and myself can attest! You need to make the wires long enough between the OUTPUT JACK, the two sets of VOLUME AND TONE POTS and the SWITCH. This is to allow you to remove less than all six units to find out which ground cable is fu.... broken! (Your language deteriorated rapidly after the 5th or 6th attempt!)
So if you are going to use the cardboard don't do it in the normal way, extend it!
No, you don't want to use a line...you want to use tubing. Line doesn't work. They get tangled, work themselves loose, fall off, etc....use 5mm tubing from Bunnings! It fits over the Pots and inside the output jack nice and tightly! Because your cabling is longer you can easily pull each unit into place starting from the Output Jack which is fartherest from the 'f' hole.
Also, because the wire between the units is longer, you are not dragging six items towards the particular cavity you are drawing the tubing out of. This also helps with the temper!
If the tubing becomes loose. Cut the end off and you will have a decent tight fitting piece to continu working with.
Brilliant Gav, of course that will be easier to feed through the holes and pick up through the "f" - so to clarify, the soldering can be completed on the pots with the pickups wiring fed through to the expanded cardboard template. Question - do I have to drill the additional hole for the earth as with the LP1 ??
Uhhhhhh, the ES arrived this year, and the kits without the hole were very early, so I'm guessing no???
Cheers Kel - looks like I might be spending a little time on this thread over the coming weeks.....thinking of the Wudcote for this fine looking guitar....black magic woman with the gold fittings - or a startling red ...!! I used the Carmine Gypsy - with the Columbian Gold on the back of my LP1 and it looks beautiful...
Do I sound excited.....you bet...haha..!!
I hear DB currently waking up from a nanna nap!
Callum could be right for once! :) probably best to check that you do have the ability to run an earth/grounding wire from the volume pot position inside the body of the guitar to a point where it will connect to a bridge or tailpiece post. It does not need to be soldered to the post but bare wire on the post jammed against the body will do the trick.Quote:
Quote from pedro on April 5, 2013, 15:15
Brilliant Gav, of course that will be easier to feed through the holes and pick up through the "f" - so to clarify, the soldering can be completed on the pots with the pickups wiring fed through to the expanded cardboard template. Question - do I have to drill the additional hole for the earth as with the LP1 ??
I'd definitely complete the soldering of the electronic components on the extended cardboard template.