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I hope your surgery went well. I'm currently a one-armed bandit as well due to shoulder surgery. Not being able to build, play guitar, or drive has been hard for me! But I'm getting more motion every day.
It is a shame about the BLO not working on the neck. Long live tru-oil:).
Good luck with the painting.
No bueno, Trevor. What did they do to your shoulder? My issue was torn rotator cuff, and apparently a pretty good rip. I'll see the Doc next Tuesday, and hopefully start physical therapy and start to get some ability back.
Acromioplasty, subacromial decompression and ACJ excision. The surgery was 1 month ago, and it is still stiff and sore (even with physio).Quote:
Originally Posted by XP Rider
Sounds like a painful process, Trevor. Hope you get your range of motion back soon. I am now 6 weeks from the surgery, and hope to be allowed to start PT next week.
I have plodded along with the build as well as possible with one hand. The body has been sanded to 220, then two applications of Timbermate with sanding. I've been spraying with a black base coat and sanding back runs for about 3 days. When that is finished, I plan a light wet sanding at 600 to smooth the surface some, then try the fancy Colorshift paint. Kind of just feeling my way along. We'll see.
Can't wait to see the colourshift!
Color Shift! Yes! I laid down several coats of a black base coat, then started with the color. Was reminded quickly that it is multiple light applications, don't worry about covering. I sanded back the runs and started again. After several coats and struggles to get an even coat, yes, the color definitely doesAttachment 43944 shift with the angle of the light. This is Rusteoleum Purple Sunrise. Attachment 43943
Still sanding on the neck to get back to bare wood. And sanding and sanding. Stay tuned.
Looking good.
Well, we live and we learn. Finally got the neck pretty well sanded back to bare wood. This may not be the best neck job I have done. Anyway, bare wood, two coats of maple stain, cure, then TruOil where I should have started in the first place. Except. Had an old bottle of TruOil that had not solidified, and I thought no use to waste that. But after half a dozen coats, the surface was getting kind of rough. Sanded again to get rid of the bumps, and started with a fresh bottle of TruOil. FYI, chuck the old bottle and buy a new one. Then. I thought maybe I should sand the body very lightly, maybe at 600 grit, before applying Wipe On poly. The colorshift still works from blue to purple, but I sanded off all the sparkles. So, now to see if I can wring one more coat out of the can. I'll get there eventually.
If the colour shift paint is any kind of lacquer (which I suspect it would be) you can't put a single-pack (hardware store stuff) polyurethane over it. The two are not compatible. Clear coat will need to be lacquer also.
A water borne poly would be compatible.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
With the colour shift paints the shift usually comes from a pearl, so if the sparkle appears to be gone then you probably had flakes in there that had settled on the surface. With a base coat/clear coat system, you will find a big difference in how it looks once cleared. You may find the sparkle comes back.