This is perfect, thank you very much, waiting on the helping hands and multi meter plus upgraded Leads. What in general should I be looking at for proper resistances?Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
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This is perfect, thank you very much, waiting on the helping hands and multi meter plus upgraded Leads. What in general should I be looking at for proper resistances?Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
In this scenario, I think you'll find that the multimeter will mostly be handy for checking continuity between components or shielding (if you've done any). Essentially following the signal and ground paths and making sure there are no shorts.Quote:
What in general should I be looking at for proper resistances?
As for resistance, you can test your pots just to see where they're operating, but that's more for curiosity than anything else (IMO). Pots (especially budget ones) can have a tolerance of ±20%, eg: a 500k pot can measure anywhere between 400k - 600k ohms.
It sounds like a lot but it's generally imperceptible to what we can hear, or how it genuinely effects the tone.
You can also test your pickups DC Resistance, but again, mostly curiosity unless something is seriously wrong.
Okay, so here we have a picture of the pick guard with the entire setup facing left. Something tells me this switch may have been wired backwards as to what I need for the neck to middle to bridge configuration goes and I might have to fix this tomorrow/later today when I get back from where I need to be at 1400 pacific. If this is so then I'll get it fixed then, I might order a switch to replace this one as this one seems to be of poor quality. on the metal side it has CF inside a circle according to amazon it might be some brand called DZS, if that means anything to you I'd appreciate the knowledge. Should I attempt a trace to see what position is what if possible? I also noticed the old neck says FC-50 and the bridge says something different.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Some quick observations:
First, I'd take out the kit neck pickup and put the Wilkinson in there. There's no need for it if your replacing it and it clutters things up visually.
It's not really backwards, as much as it is just incorrect. See my comments below.Quote:
Something tells me this switch may have been wired backwards as to what I need for the neck to middle to bridge configuration goes...
IMO, there is no need to replace the switch unless it is faulty. Installing a Fender-style switch may be problematic with the depth of the control cavity and would unnecessarily complicate things for you at this stage of your build experience.
NECK PICKUP:
The red & white wires from the neck p/u are suppose to go to Lug #6. They appear to go to Lug #3.
The yellow lead (HOT) from the neck p/u is supposed to go to Lug #1. It appears to go to Lug#4.
I can't tell where you're grounds for the neck p/u are going in the pic.
MIDDLE PICKUP:
The red lead (HOT) from the middle p/u looks to be correctly soldered to Lug #2.
BRIDGE PICKUP:
Red & white wires from the bridge p/u are supposed to go to Lug #8. There is currently no wire soldered to Lug #8 and I can't see where the red & white wires are going at all.
The yellow lead (HOT) from the bridge p/u is supposed to go to Lug #3. It appears to go to Lug#6.
Again, I can't see where the grounds for the bridge p/u are going.
SWITCH to VOLUME/TONE CIRCUIT:
You currently have soldered a wire from Lug #1 to the volume pot. That wire should be come from Lug #4.
There should be a wire going to ground soldered from Lug #7. You currently have nothing soldered to Lug #7.
The red white pair that's simplified to a red wire with white and shielded with the ground being the shield and soldiered to the pot in a cluster. The grounds aren't obvious on the two Jumpers that connect the buckers to the lugs. This is how it was setup originally, I haven't touched the pots. I have my bridge and Neck swapped. I went ahead and ordered a switch to upgrade, TBH I don't really like the switch the way it's been setup, If I play with the lugs I'm afraid I'll bust them, I'll have the kaish within the next 2-3 hours. I can then wire things EXACTLY as they need to be and there will be no doubts as to what is really going where. I'll still keep my jumper setup as if I don't for now, I don't have extra wire to extend the yellow wires or the grounds from the HB's.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Okay, so, the Pick guard is all wired up, just need to buy some washers to put on top of the nuts that go under the pots and replace a nut.Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverick Wolfe
Have you sound tested the the pickups? Are they working and splitting correctly?Quote:
Okay, so, the Pick guard is all wired up, just need to buy some washers to put on top of the nuts that go under the pots and replace a nut.
If you don't know this already, you can connect just the pickups via a lead from the output jack or with test leads from the output jack hot & ground, to a amp input (make sure the amp volume is OFF to start with).
You can turn the volume up gradually and tap the pole pieces of the pickups with a steel object (commonly a screwdriver). You will only hear a clicking sound, but it will tell you if the pickups are passing a signal, if the switch configuration is correct and if the volume & tone pots are working correctly.
I'll have that done when I take it in to have the Bridge and strings setup for me initially. I don't have all the tools to properly take care of initial setup of my Floyd. I will get it installed, and then have a more experienced luthier finish it up for me. Sadly I lost a very close family friend whom was my influence, mentor and inspiration into doing this kind of thing to cancer, he would have done it for me and showed me how in person or had me do it under his watchful eye.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
I found an amp on CL for 20.00 in great condition it's a 33 watt amp, not the exact type I'd like with USB, however it will do for testing and practice.Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverick Wolfe
Got the Amp, Pick guard works perfectly.