A family matter.

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Originally Posted by jonwhitear

Oz, I've recently built a DTL-1 as well, and it just happens to be blue. I also went with the Grovers and Wilkinson bridge, but got the Hot Classic Toneriders. This is my "go to" guitar at the moment - all the spank of a "Carry On" film, and more twang than my home-brew. I'm looking forward to following your build.

One thing to bear in mind is that they're fairly heavy - mine weighs in at about 4Kg. That doesn't bother me, as most of the time it's on my knee, but if yours is going to be played live a lot, you might want to think about weight relief.

I was really happy with the flame in the neck on mine. I used a very light/dilute Feast Watson Golden Teak stain, and finished with Tru Oil, which together brought the flame out very nicely. I wouldn't have thought Timbermate would have much effect on maple, as there's not much in the way of pores to fill. Why don't you want to use Tru Oil on yours?

The body, on the other hand, will be a great candidate for some Timbermate. The ash is really porous. I think I applied two or three coats of Ebony on mine, left to dry for a couple of days and then sanded back between coats, and still didn't end up with a completely level finish. I think it would take a lot of TO to level the finish out if you don't fill it first.

Are you doing a string through?

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Too heavy for the end user....now for me or will be for sale.

Not string through...top mount compensated bridge.

I like the cedar timbermate and how it sits in the grain...on the neck I use a slightly thinner mix...the body gets a custard mix twice...sanded at 240 and then again and sanded at 320. Not too much moisture....and I fill holes with paper that I pull out soon as the slurry is on.

I am thinking maybe a little darker golden teak than yours....or even some Color tone vintage amber....but definitely under Tru oil.

Back of the neck will be satin...for ease of playing. Maybe I will do the whole neck in satin and then just buff up the headstock to a gloss.

Advice from Wazkelly on application of tru oil over my ES/5V burst. I would add to slightly overlap the brush strokes to avoid a drying edge, and to paint in the direction of the grain. Work from light to dark. Keep the brush strokes light...practice also wouldn’t hurt.


From build #2 through to current # 6 I have brushed on initial 2 coats of Tru Oil before switching to rag application method.

It is quite simple, just pour a small amount in small container, load the brush up with plenty and lightly paint the surface with a 1" to no bigger than 2" brush, in same manner as you would on a door, wall, or any other surface. You will notice on first coat application that the timber is very thirsty and need to resist going back over where you have just applied finish too many times as it can end up disturbing the stain.

Give it least 24 hours and then brush the 2nd coat on which shouldn't need as much delicate care due to a proper thick 1st coat also acting as the sealer.

Cheers, Waz

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Originally Posted by DarkMark

Advice from Wazkelly on application of tru oil over my ES/5V burst. I would add to slightly overlap the brush strokes to avoid a drying edge, and to paint in the direction of the grain. Work from light to dark. Keep the brush strokes light...practice also wouldn’t hurt.


From build #2 through to current # 6 I have brushed on initial 2 coats of Tru Oil before switching to rag application method.

It is quite simple, just pour a small amount in small container, load the brush up with plenty and lightly paint the surface with a 1" to no bigger than 2" brush, in same manner as you would on a door, wall, or any other surface. You will notice on first coat application that the timber is very thirsty and need to resist going back over where you have just applied finish too many times as it can end up disturbing the stain.

Give it least 24 hours and then brush the 2nd coat on which shouldn't need as much delicate care due to a proper thick 1st coat also acting as the sealer.

Cheers, Waz

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Thank you Mark and Waz.

If the iceman was not a veneer I would be tempted to sand back....but it is...and I will endure.

Absolutely swear by brushing 1st & 2nd coats, even on a natural finish as it goes on quicker and thicker from the get go.

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That's a great tip. I can see that improving my own future Tru-oil endeavours.

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Wow...and wow again.

I have to say that the supplier of these Tele kits has done a really good job. It is a two piece Ash body. Every hole is pre-drilled...makes it hard to do my normal recessed Tele jack socket, but that is fine.

The neck to body fit is amazing.

I really like the grain and figure on the body. The flame on the neck and fingerboard.....without any metho, water etc...just by eye...is pretty cool too.

As Molly would say..."Do yourselves a favour."

Make a DT-L tele.

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Originally Posted by wazkelly

Absolutely swear by brushing 1st & 2nd coats, even on a natural finish as it goes on quicker and thicker from the get go.

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Thanks mate.

I cannot believe that the obvious nature of the Tru Oil spreading the colour has escaped me for so long. I feel like such an idiot.

Well...at least there will be no issue on this build. No Tru Oil.

I have to say these necks are amazing. It was sanded very fine and was a good shape to start with.....I cut the headstock to a 90's style T shape from a template.

The neck has had 80 grit, 120 grit, 180 grit.....1 x coat of cedar Timbermate.....dry....sanded off with 240 grit. Damp down with a cloth and water...light sand with 320 grit...did this 3 times. Sanded (dry) to 400 grit.

(First photo of the neck with no flash...the others are with flash.)

1 x coat of Feast Watson Golden Teak stain.

1 x thick coat of Tru -Oil....dry about 15 mins in the pics.

The body...well the Navy Blue has a lot of purple in it. The Blue is nice colour...but the winner is the turquoise...it is amazing.

Sanded through to 400 grit with 2 coats of timbermate at 180 and 240....then damp wiped at 320 x 3 times....then a light sand to 400.

One coat of the Blue across the front and the Navy around the edge, the sides and the complete back.

Let dry for about 1 hour. Started sanding at 400 grit...nothing....ended up sanding 240 grit, 360 girt and then 400 grit.

Then one heavy coat of the Turquoise in the middle....feathered the Navy and the Turquoise together around the edges. It is a narrow edge.....but if I try to spread the Navy it goes very purple and gets a sort of reflective finish to it.

Three oiled/glue/greasy marks on the front. The back had about five glue marks...plastic bristles brush and goof off fixed them easily. But the front ones have stayed. I am more inclined to think they are in the wood.

I will let both dry until tomorrow now and see how things are.

Front and Back.....and one last neck shot. (No flash)

I bet you can’t take your eyes off that neck. Nice score.