I'd prefer to assume it will, rather than it won't. Raised grain can be dealt with, it really isn't much of a problem, but stained cracked binding is a lot harder, and painting it really is about the only solution that I found worked.
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I'd prefer to assume it will, rather than it won't. Raised grain can be dealt with, it really isn't much of a problem, but stained cracked binding is a lot harder, and painting it really is about the only solution that I found worked.
That is a good point and reasonable consideration. It would be an interesting experiment if one had some scraps of the different bindings.Quote:
Also, the ES-1 binding is thicker white/black/white black layered binding, whilst McCreed's PRS-style binding looks to be a much thinner single ply binding, so was probably far more flexible and went on without any major/deep stress cracks when bent.
Probably sounds crazy, but have you ever tried bleach on a cotton bud? (cotton swab)Quote:
...and painting it really is about the only solution that I found worked.
I have no idea if it would react poorly on the plastic, but maybe not.
No I haven't. Plastic should be OK though with it.
Some really good knowledge and advice in this thread, thank you all.
Are you saying I shouldn't purchase something pre-diluted? Like this:Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ColorTon...-/132129688971
I agree with McCreed
I think the prediluted is already at the 30:1. That ratio is suggested in the StewMac doco.
I have found it too light and use about 15:1(metho). I used 8:1 and 1:1 covering trying to cover glue marks and scratches on my ES.
You could use lots of coats at 30:1 but I have been unable to achieve my required depth of colour.
It is expensive but "she who must be obeyed" will tell you to stop building guitars before you use a bottle.
I think TransTint is the same as ColorTone with emphasis on the "think".
Pre-diluting to that extent is an easy way for the seller to maximise their profit by simply adding water, and without a detailed chemical analysis it would be impossible to say whether it was a true 30:1 mix (actually the normal 1oz to 1 quart would be a 32:1 mix), and may well be diluted a lot more in reality. StuMac don't give duff advice, so the standard mix should be fine for obtaining a good stained finish.
But what works well on light wood won't be as effective on a darker wood, so I'd always look to buy something more concentrated that can be mixed as necessary to suit the situation.
That is the Seller I bought it from. I wouldn't buy from him again.Quote:
Originally Posted by glenwilliam
Funnily enough I bought the same one from the same vendor, and I didn't have any issue with it on the HB-4, it came up the colour I was after. I think I'd probably have preferred it if what was being sold was the strain and not premixed... I kinda like the control of mixing myself and choosing what carrier to dilute it in. The problem with stain is once you get to a certain point, the colour doesn't deepen no matter how many coats you put on, unless you mix up some more with a more concentrated dilution. kinda a shame it isn't more like a candy.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
I'll also add that when I switched to the U-Beaut timber dye (also water based) I used it undiluted to achieve the result you see on that TLA. U-Beaut has a 7-colour kit that cost me $39 (7 x 50ml bottles) I used less than 25ml to do that body.
Not sure what part of Brissie you're in, but there is a Woodturners Supply shop at The Gap. That's where I got mine.
They are truly old school and their website is horrible, but they're a nice old couple that run it.
Thanks for the tip! I do like the colour of your TLA - not as bright as the ColorTone cherry so maybe I can achieve that more vintage-look with the U-beaut dyes.. either way, worth the investment to check them out for that price. I'm in Coorparoo so will venture north!Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed