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Did you do the whole thing with sandpaper? If that's the case, try using steel wool to right up next to the frets.Quote:
I am slightly unhappy with the colour variations, mostly caused by relative difficulty of sanding evenly right up next to the frets.
Because it doesn't have fixed aggregate, it's more forgiving working across the grain than sandpaper.
Thanks Sonic. I wasn't sure if the uneven coloration was from me sanding too much, or not enough. In some places, based on the dust I was getting, it felt like I had sanded through the CA to the wood.
I had worked up to 800 grit, but could go finer if you think it will help. It's just those frets really get in the way, making it very hard to get an even finish.
I scraped initially with a razor blade, and then sanded with sandpaper, first 400 and then 800. I need to polish the frets again anyway. I wonder if I polish the frets carefully without masking, that should get the fretboard next to the frets as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
I'd go with finer grits and even a few micromesh grades as well. Not too fine unless you want a really glossy board. If you are polishing the frets, then once the basic scratches are out, I'd unmask it and polish the frets and board together.
Sounds like a plan. Finer grits and mesh pads, mask to sand scratches out of frets, then unmask to polish everything with 0000, and mask once more for polishing frets with metal polish.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
But that makes me question how 0000 steel wool compares to something like 1200 grit wet and dry which is the finest grade I have at the moment. Or should I order some micromesh pads and skip the steel wool? I have read of people having issues with fine metal shavings causing problems.
I used to use steel wool, but micromesh does a better job IMO and you don't get all the small steel wool piece problems. So now the steel wool only gets used around the house for the jobs steel wool is the best thing for.
You really don't want the shavings to get anywhere near your pickups, especially if open coil types. The shavings then go rusty, and if wedged in the coil windings, they corrode through the insulation and then you need a pickup rewind.
Thanks Simon. Micromesh online order it is then. I hope they deliver fairly quickly, I am running out of pedal projects to keep me amused while trying to progress the tele!
Note that Micromesh grits are a different system to P series grits. The coarsest Micromesh, 1500 grit, is just a bit finer than P600. So no point using anything less than MM1800 if you've already used P1000.
Comparison chart here.
https://www.thesandpaperman.com.au/a...ion-chart.html
FTR, I only suggested steel wool because I thought you were already using it in your build process, but reading back through, I must have confused it with someone else's thread.
I haven't used steel wool on a guitar (or any woodworking) in over 15 years, and normally try to dissuade anyone from using it for the exact reasons Simon mentioned. The little steel fibres are near impossible to keep out of anything, be it pickups, control cavities or wet finish.
My preferred sanding method (apart from standard paper) are the synthetic sanding pads like these:
https://www.thesandpaperman.com.au/b...-sanding-pads/
The Norton brand actually call them "synthetic steel wool" as do many users.
I use Micro-Mesh strictly for wet sanding, but apparently they can be used dry as well.
Order placed for a 2400 micro mesh sheet (as I already have a large roll of 1200 wet and dry), foam sanding block, and a 2-pack 0000 synthetic steel wool pad. I guess it's back to my pedal projects while I wait for delivery. At least this delay is giving the clear coat on the body some extra curing time. It's just over 2 weeks now.