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No!. Sanding sealer isn't meant to go over stain. Just put clear coat over stain.
I don't know why your 1K rattle can causes the stain to blotch. I'm not experienced at all with acrylic sprays apart from painting a few DIY effects unit cases, but people have used clear acrylic sprays over stains on this forum for years without any issues that I've noticed.
If you start with a couple of very light sprays, I'd have thought that should be enough to seal the surface for some wetter spraying. But maybe others will comment.
What is the 1K spray you have used before?
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https://i.ibb.co/nPnznSt/IMG20230907191136.jpg
This is the 1k clear that is available in India. 2k clears are available but not very readily and also are made in China. I am not sure how good they are.
I have bought both matte and high gloss this time to try out.
The last time I tried same High gloss clear on scrap wood the stain did become blotchy. So i sprayed sanding sealer 3 coats and then the 1k clear and it didn't cause any problems.
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Sanding sealer is definitely a before staining product.
That's a polyurethane clear spray. I can't find any more details on it as it doesn't appear to be incorporated onto their website yet.
https://www.asianpaints.com/products...ray-paint.html
Other people have used wipe-on polyurethane successfully, so I'm not sure why it would make it go blotchy, unless it's reacting with the sanding sealer underneath it (especially as you said that was a nitro-based product).
Any clear coat you use should go on without needing anything underneath it. 1k just means that its a single part spray. 2k is a 2-part spray that contains a catalyst for fast-drying/hardening (and the catalyst isn't good for you at all so you definitely need a proper mask to use it). So most sprays are 1k.
I'd give the spray another go with a sample (ensuring the stain is fully dry) and see if it still goes blotchy.
If so, I'd try and look for some clear lacquer spray from a car care store, which should be an acrylic finish.
Otherwise I'd look for a Shellac spray, as this definitely will go on without reacting with the stain or a top coat. You should then be able to use your current spray over the top, without the need for sanding.
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Thank you @Simon Barden.
I tried the clearcoat on stain on scrap wood and it did become blotchy again.
Was able to get some thin shellac liquid (dewaxed - that's what he said) from a local carpenter but was a reddish liquid not the blond one. I decided to go ahead with it and applied thin coats. Have done 2 coats.
It has considerably darkened the colour From bright purple to this.
https://i.ibb.co/cTmCc5H/IMG20230910174431.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/7QTvxgX/IMG20230910174410.jpg
I really hope it works.
Few more questions?
1. What's is the next logical step? Scraping The binding? Or going ahead with Rattle can clear coat
2. Do I have to sand the shellac before clear coat? If so with what grit?.
3. At what point of time I must start with electronics soldering?
Thank you guys for all the help
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Scrape the binding before putting any clear coat on.
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1 Attachment(s)
Start by scraping binding, as Simon says.
I use a super thin coat of shellac (1lb cut) and don't sand. I don't think you need to unless there is a rough spot. I use a fairly thick clear coat so I have not found it necessary with super blonde.
I like the color, and with a ruby or garnet shellac sanding might change the color...so I wouldn't if unless you feel you must. Once nice thing about shellac is that it doesn't darken over time like an oil finish can...so it should stay pretty much the color it is now.
As to the soldering you can do that pretty much anytime, since you have to wire the harness outside the body anyway.
I made a template of the control positions that I put on a piece of very thin masonite or plywood. I made it on paper first, then made a PDF so that I could archive it. I glue the paper to the masonite.
I am a bit paranoid about getting the wiring right before putting it in the guitar. It's such a huge PITA to get the harness through the f-hole and in place that I wanted to make sure it worked before making the attempt. So, I built a "testbed" to make sure everything worked. You can see my original here.
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...?t=5339&page=9
It seemed like overkill at the time, but the cap values I had in the plan did not work at all well for me, and this allowed me to change them before putting the harness inside the bass. In one of the pics you can see my solution to shielding the wiring in a semi-hollow bass ;-)
I have since improved the test bed. I have been making changes to the bass in the diary above, and pulled the wiring harness out. While it was out I re-soldered a cap that had come lose, and did a mod on the pickups. It's almost ready for testing.
Attachment 44803
It really is overkill now...but I actually added the bass tuners and four strings to test different bridge configurations in paulownia wood for a different project. So in for a penny...this time the pups are in the same location they'll be in the finished bass. Will test the tone caps again with all four strings this time ;-)
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I have finally done with scraping of the binding and the F hole.
I first started out with surgical 11 size blade which i use for cutting deep tissues to get into the bone. But it didn't yield me good results, so I went out and got a pack of razor blades and that did the trick
https://i.ibb.co/Nn9gs1f/IMG20230914200535.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/BZxrKvz/IMG-20230914-225121.jpg
I think it has come reasonable well. There are a few places where the binding has cracked and and the stain has seeped in and any amount of scraping is making the binding only thin. So it's been a learning experience.
https://i.ibb.co/D5T0YS1/IMG20230914224604.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/1LMLwd6/IMG20230914224623.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/gMrM6QD/IMG20230914224633.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/qMc7DSk/IMG20230914224923.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/yQGXZCQ/IMG20230914224938.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/3NDbMYB/IMG20230914224958.jpg
May be ill go with I more coat of Shellac liquid and then start the clearcoat process
Should i tape the binding now or can I spray the 1k clearcoat over binding too?
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Your Shellac isn’t the clear type (or as clear as it gets) so it’s going to make the binding look yellow. It’s up to you whether you want that or not. I prefer some tinting as the kit binding is very white.
Otherwise, yes, clear coat over the binding.
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If you are not sure, you could brush a tiny bit on the binding with a thin artist's paint brush. If you don't like the color you can scrape it off. If you do, you have your answer ;-)
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Hi guys,
Update : Have done a last coat of shellac.
I feel shellac layers are so thin to sand before laying the clear coat.
As usual I have a lots of doubts
1.Do I have to add more layers of shellac and sand with 400 before laying clearcoat or can go ahead with clear coat?
2. Do I need to spray clearcoat indoors. Does it need a dust free environment?
3. How do I hang the guitars for spraying at home?
4.How many coats of Clear before I start sanding?
5. Do I have to sand with 600 and the spray a few Clear coat and then sand 800 and so on? Or do I have to lay enough coats upfront and then keep sanding sequentially?
6. At what point should i levels sand? When should I start wetsanding?
7. At what point should i stop the clear and go ahead to buff and polish?
8. How do I avoid drips and run ins? And how do I tackle drips and run ins?
I am sorry for asking a lot of questions. I just want to be prepared
Thanks in advance
Drashkum
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