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I have recently purchased a 5 cm deep template following router bit so as to be able to route a rough-cut body in one pass. So today I tried it out on my last two pine tele' basses. This makes it much easier, and quicker, and gets a much better result. I wish I had bought one earlier.
I'm a bit undecided with how I want to finish the last two bodies.
I had originally intended that the jarrah striped body would be natural, but now I'm thinking orange (possibly with a red burst). And possibly no pick guard.
The knotty body will be finished similar to the Dusty Hill tribute I have just finished - diluted FW Old Baltic.
I cannot decide on the necks though!
2¢ - Maple fretboard with Jarrah striped body.
Thanks. Good choice:oQuote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
Routed out the control cavity, pup cavity and the neck cavity for both bodies. Also drilled out the jack socket recess, the channels linking the pup cavity to the control cavity, and the bridge ground to the control cavity.
I did a lot better job of the bridge ground by making a little jig - a block of wood with a drilled hole at the correct angle (basically a pocket hole jig) which I clamped to the body. This stabilized the long drill bit and kept it at the correct angle.
Headstocks have been rough cut, and then routed to shape using my templates. The necks have been sanded to 240g.
I have changed the nut on the rosewood neck to a bone nut.
Also did a rough job filing the nut string slots to get them just above where I want them (down to a nut action of 1.7 mm). I forked out for some Hosco Bass Nut Slot files - which seem very easy to use. I like the fact that these files are slightly triangular as it makes them a lot more rigid.
Quote:
Also did a rough job filing the nut string slots to get them just above where I want them (down to a nut action of 1.7 mm).
I know action can be a personal preference, but 1.7mm sounds like a lot to me. Even if that's your unfretted string height, I would expect intonation issues when fretting on the lower frets.
I generally go for between .010 -.020" (.25-.50mm) at the first fret with the string depressed at the 3rd fret (depending on the instrument). With that fretted height, it leaves the unfretted height around .5-.75mm above the first fret.
For the rest of the set-up, Neck relief .012 - .015" (.3 - .4mm) and string action at the 12th is E = 5/64" (1.98mm) G = 4/64" (1.58mm).
This is my rough (pre-setup) guide before the strings are on. It is also the height of the nut slot above the fretboard (not above the first fret). It probably leaves the E quite close to 0.35 mm above the first fret.Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
They will need more precise filing with the final setup.
Ah, I see. Now that you explained your method, I get it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor Davies
Did you measure the actual height of the first fret before using the 1.7mm depth? Fret height will vary and you don't want to get caught short (or deep in this case! :o)
Yes I do check the height of the first fret. I'm sure I will get caught short one day though!Quote:
Originally Posted by McCreed
I find this technique really useful when I remove a nut and sand the base. I can do a quick check of the slot heights against a feeler gauge on the fretboard so I know when I'm getting close to the wanted height.