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It wasn't an issue with the ball ends protruding, just that the string hole size was too small for the actual B string to go through smoothly. I did go for a heavier gauge of strings than I would normally have chosen, as I'd read in several places that the low B needed to be above a certain size to work well. I can't remember what gauge first got fitted as it was several years ago now but probably 45-135, they were an expensive set of player-named DR strings (maybe Marcus Miller?). They were then replaced by a set of Peavey Cirrus strings (which I was sure would fit as they were designed for the bass!) but had the same issue. I think the biggest problem was where the silk windings went round the ends of the strings - I had to get a knife and cut the silk away as it wouldn't fit through at all without doing that!
Looking at some Schaller 5-string bridge drawings, I see that their string hole diameter is 4.6mm on a top-mount bridge (with a 6mm diameter string ferrule indent) and 4.8mm on a string-through bridge. As a 0.135" string has a diameter of 3.43mm (plus manufacturing tolerances), there shouldn't be an issue (although there is no indication of diameter at the start of the silk windings)
But I'm also a bit limited to the choice of bridges as I think the Peavey has a wider than normal (or wider than Fender at least) string spacing. It's difficult to find details like the hole sizes in string ferrules and bridges from most manufacturers. So I need to find an adjustable width bridge that will fit my string spacing requirements and that I know has a large enough string hole size.
Why can't it be easy?
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1 Attachment(s)
Hey Simon, all you can do is find the nearest best fit and run with that.
String spacings could be an issue if your neck is quite narrow towards end of the fret board. Never seen or heard of a bridge with sideways adjustable saddles. Maybe these individual bits might do the trick?
Attachment 15432
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Some of the Schaller bridges have sideways adjustment. Had problems with getting a better bridge for narrow bass string spacings before, but the Peavey seems to be a wider spacing than standard by a few mm.
I'd thought about individual saddles, but it would then be a case of having to fill in and disguise the existing saddle fixing screw holes. The individual ones would be good on an un-drilled body.
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Yeah, just re-checked your bridge and it is anchored with 6 screws and they are positioned either side of the string so those individual ones wouldn't hide the old holes.
Never got past the price tag on Schaller to see what they could or couldn't do. Maybe they are cheaper in UK? Are they still made in Germany?
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They still are made there. Which generally explains the higher prices. Still expensive compared to say the average Gotoh bridge, but there is a lot more engineering and adjustability in them.
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Can't beat German engineering.
Shipping and exchange rates tend to price them a bit out of reach once they get to this far flung part of the planet.
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Still, if you wanted to spend a lot of money on a bridge, some of the ABR ones (another German brand) are about double the price of the Schallers.
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Hmmm, quality overkill perhaps where the part could be more expensive/valuable than the rest of the axe.
Don't get me wrong, always believe in using better quality parts wherever possible, but not prepared to spend plenty for negligible gain or functionality as that could be funds better spent on other things, such as another kit or other upgrades.
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Found the 5-string bridge and the hole diameter was 3.43mm, so no wonder that bottom B was tight! Bridge spacing is 64mm, 16mm between strings, which is actually slightly narrower than some (I had it in my head that it was wider). My bridge looks exactly like the Allparts economy 5-string bass bridge, which has a 64mm (2-17/32") spacing, so it probably is that one.
All the other fixed spacing bridges I can find are wider e.g. the Gotoh bridge is 68.8mm. Even the affordable adjustable ones will only squeeze down to just over 65mm (which should be acceptable). The Schaller top-loader will squeeze down to 64.3mm. But I'm not sure that I want a bridge that looks like the strings don't really fit.
So I'll have another look and see if I can't find something that's the correct size, otherwise I'll try drilling out the low B hole to 4 mm and see if that helps. Looking at the picture of my bass again, there's not a lot of scope to go for a wider spacing.
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Drilling out the existing one may be the way to go but not a lot of fun as you will need to drill in reverse so that it doesn't bite and tear too much out or break the drill bit.
Fivers are wide enough and agree that you want things fairly compact if at all possible.