Keep going!
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Keep going!
I did the ferrules for the bridge pins and the strap buttons before I had to stop for the night. Next I need to go ahead and shield the cavity.
A little clearcoat somehow got under the tape and onto the fretboard at the first fret. Whats the best way to get that off?
Realy loving the look of this build man! I mean, what's not to love about an MK-2?? Coming along beautifully.
cheers,
Gav.
The sides or the top of the fretboard? It's normal to clear coat the sides of the fretboard. If it's on the front, it depends on what you're using for the clear coat. First I'd use a flat sharp knife blade (e.g. craft knife, box cutter or single-sided razor-blade) to scrape along the surface, going with the grain, and you should be able to get a lot of it off. If there's any left, then you need to find a suitable solvent. For nitro, then cellulose thinners would do the job (but be careful of getting it on the rest of the neck). I'm not sure what the best solvents would be for acrylic or poly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rev
On the top/face... a little clear must have leaked under the tape. I was thinking razor blade but wanted to check first in case theres a better way.
Funny point - the clear coat I used had some pearlescent flakes in it. They arent very visible against the yellow, but I noticed that on the sides of the fretboard, they stand out. I have sparkley frets. :)
A flat sharp blade is generally the preferred way of scraping grunge and dirt off a fretboard. Because the edge is flat, it doesn't dig in to the wood, but hits any high spots it meets and over a few strokes, reduces those until it's level again.
Clearcoat removed from fretboard face.
Whisked over the inside of control cavity with 200 grit just to remove the excess fiber in there, since I'm about to do the body shielding. In deference to my wife, I cleaned up all the accumulated tools that were sitting on my bench, heh. With any luck Ill get to shield the cavity tonight.
Then I shove the stripped end of the ground wire into its channel to the tailpiece stud holes and bang those ferrules in.
The ferrules for the bridge chipped the yellow around them just a little, but I doubt anyone but me would notice.
Oh, and I triplechecked the pickguard to make sure it will lay flat on the surface, since all the pickups, switches and pots are on it.
Shielding paint today. Waiting for second coat to dry, one more to go.
Dont think Ive told this story on here, but yeeeears ago, it was too expensive for me to obtain a can of the stuff, so I used to spray cavities with glue and then press aluminum foil into a lining and ground that with a ring terminal. It actually worked rather well if you were careful cutting it to fit the cavity. But I'm doing the real thing on this one, lol.
Some people think that aluminium is the best material for hum-shielding. I haven't seen any scientific tests done about the best form of shielding - paint, copper or aluminium, though I'd be interested in any. It's normally just peoples say-so. Any test needs to be done in controlled conditions with the same levels of RF noise present.
As with any shielding, always check your wiring and make sure there are no strands of wire poking from a solder joint that can touch the shielding and short out the signal, or any pots that rotate slightly so that a connection touches the shielding.