This is a mahogany neck I grain filled using the slurry method:
Attachment 42375
It is a Tru Oil finish.
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This is a mahogany neck I grain filled using the slurry method:
Attachment 42375
It is a Tru Oil finish.
Got it. Will give it a go tonight once it cools down a bit. Applying in 40 degree heat the truoil goes tacky too quickly.
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You want to use a wet/dry sandpaper and not finer than P600. P400 is a good starting point, then P600 as the grain starts to fill in.Quote:
Originally Posted by mrpearson
You don't need to apply a lot of pressure, just enough to let the sandpaper do the work and enough oil that it's not binding or grabbing.
It will take at least several applications with allowing the Tru Oil to dry in between.
Also use an appropriately sized block for the area you're working. Small enough that your not sanding more area than you need but get a reasonable "stroke" with the block. (note: I find a circular motion is effective as you're really just sanding finish not the wood in this case.)
If the Tru Oil is tacking up that quickly, then you may need to lightly dilute it (I would try 10% turps and see how you go). I know this is contrary to what I posted earlier, but I have not had to work it in such extreme temperature. And in this application of slurry sanding, the extra mineral turps is beneficial. When I have done this with DIY wipe-on poly, I have added a bit extra turps.
4000 grit micromesh is a polishing grade grit and is useless for flattening the finish. You’ll just be smoothing the very tops of high points and making them quite shiny, but you won’t really be ‘flattening’ the finish and there will still be a significant difference between the high and low points of the finish.
I’d stick with P600, or maybe P400, if you really want to get the finish flat. But I’d wait until you’ve got enough layers on to do it safely and not risk sand-through.
I agree with McCreed on using CA for the F- hole area rough patches. I’d probably use the thin or extra thin CA so it fills the ‘valleys’ as thicker CA may just follow the contours. But thin CA is very runny indeed, so mask off around the area to avoid runs and get the F-hole area flat first so the CA stays in place. Don’t use a CA accelerant to make it dry quicker as it’s likely to pucker and cloud. Just apply and leave for a day to fully harden.
Thanks McCreed and Simon. Simon your 335 build was one of the first I followed and very wary of sanding through my truoil. I have already refinished the back and headstock by sanding through so want avoid killing the front as veneer is already has a vintage appeal and want to avoid shifty from classy vintage to relic.
I have tested a small area using the slurry method using 600 grit wet and dry paper. Will see how it dries and give it another go.
If I go the super glue route, does standard Bunnings super glue do the trick or do you buy something special ????
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Superglue is pretty much superglue (unless you go for the medical grade stuff that's safe to use for closing wounds up), but I would use the thin stuff. The standard off-the-shelf superglue is a medium viscosity. If you watch the StewMac videos on drop filling techniques, they use the thin stuff just because it has much less surface tension so it fills any hollows well.
Do a local search for hobby stores in your area. Most of them stock the different viscosities.Quote:
If I go the super glue route, does standard Bunnings super glue do the trick or do you buy something special ????
The hardware store stuff Simon is talking about may be different than what we get in AUS, but IME the Selley's brand in the little tubes is thicker than the medium viscosity (ZAP brand) I get from Hobbyrama. However I agree that the thin viscosity is better suited to a grain filling application.
Yes, I suppose CA glues must be created in a wide range of fairly closely defined viscosities for industrial purposes, and then for general purpose use they generally them just classify them as thick, medium, thin (and sometimes extra-thin), and medium/standard glue can still have a reasonable variation in viscosity from brand to brand.
Morning all. I am getting low on tru oil and Pitbull seems out of stock. Does anyone know where you can buy in Perth ?
Mike
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Do a web search for gun stores in Perth.Quote:
Originally Posted by mrpearson