What kind of clear are you spraying? Haven't you been using Dingotone?
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What kind of clear are you spraying? Haven't you been using Dingotone?
It's just the sca brand clear which I have used plenty of times.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
I have used the clear in conjunction with Dingotone on the JMA with no issues but its also very possible that it has reacted with the Dingotone. In saying that it hasn't reacted on the top of the guitar and despite a very small run it has turned out pretty nice.
It's a wax/oil finish you've been using. I don't know of any paint finishes that would work well with that. I know Tru-Oil goes over Dingotone from other's experiences, but all the spray finishes I know require clean, grease-free surfaces to work on. I'd suggest you either use Tru-Oil, or wait a month or so to see if the oils/waxes have then evaporated fully leaving only the stain behind and try spraying again.
Correct Simon i knew there were some risks in taking this approach and I did test the clear over Dingotone on some spare timber with no issues before going ahead with the body. Im a bit puzzled that there has been no issues on the top though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
It's possible the solvents are compatible but that in that patch they weren't cured quite enough before you sprayed.
Regardless, acrylic lacquer over an oil based product like dingo tone is not really a good long term recipe. My instinct is that it will craze in years to come, because the lacquer will fully harden before the oil does.
Different colour Dingotone will have different components in them, so it may also be something to do with that colour DT as it seemed to go over the clear DT OK. Or as Sonic says, it just wasn't dry enough.
Yeah I've had a good amount of time to think about it and the more I do the more I realise that it was not a very good way to go about it. Oh well a tad embarrassing but its still worth sharing this so others don't try the same hairbrained ideas. I haven't really lost anything except time and a small amount of pride.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
I'm going to take it back to scratch and start over and do it properly.
DT can be very fickle stuff to use. I even had 2 completely different looking MkI batches of Coolangatta Gold that had me wondering if they were in fact the same colour? One was clear and translucent whilst the next batch was opaque and looked more like satay sauce.
That blotchy reaction happened a lot on my first couple of builds and reckon it is all down to weather conditions and lack of proper curing time allowed between coats. Also a big reason why I ended up using TO for top coats and continued using it on next 4 builds as it is so much more forgiving and easier to use with minimal "stuffing it up" risks attached. Might not be as environmentally friendly but neither is poly, nitro or acrylic.
Yes I've noticed it can be a bit fickle.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
Ordering some true oil today which I should have done in the first place.
I have learned a big lesson out of this and I certainly won't be so gung ho about my finishing choices in future.
I'm starting over on this one.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...ee03f70b4a.jpg
For colours I can recommend Keda Powder Dyes. Round figures I think it was $45 delivered which included 5 colours and you can then mix your own custom colours.
I coloured this one with them with mostly red, a little black and a little blue in warm water.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b939821a94.jpg
Robbo
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