The powers that be take all the fun out of teaching.....Quote:
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from WeirdBits on June 15, 2013, 13:30
Woodwork class Rule # 1: Don't eviscerate students.Quote:
/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from dingobass on June 14, 2013, 22:05
probably don't have a router at school because of the risk level...
jeez.. you wouldn't wanna loose your guts or eyes out of the learning cycle...gasp...
Not wrong there AJ..
I had a router bit fly out at full revs.. Lucky for me the window was open in the Man Cave and the bit went that way.
Ended up on the neighbours roof where it still sits to this day, as Gavin put it, plotting my demise! :)
I have also had a bit shatter, spraying small shards of Tungsten Carbide all over the place.
Note to self and everyone... DO NOT buy router bits from Bunn....stillcan'tsaythatword... or any other chain hardware store.
ALWAYS buy good quality from a specialist. They last longer and if handled with respect won't explode....
Like StewMac bits!!!
Anyhoo, moving along...
Neck Day!
First up, I mark the centre line on my chunk of Rock Maple neck blank, line up my trusty template and draw the outlines of the neck profile.
After determining where the truss rod needs to sit in the neck I get out my trusty 8mm brad point drill and wrap a piece of tape around it as a depth gauge for the routed groove.
Next up I clamp the neck blank to the trusty work mate bench, set up the router guide rail so the bit will cut down the centre line.
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Let the routing begin....
I take shallow cuts as the chips fill the groove up otherwise and this can be a pain in the butt to clean out.
Once I have the groove to the correct depth, I need to widen and deepen the groove at the headstock end to accept the adjusting thingy housing.
When this is done, the truss rod sits flush with the top of the neck blank.
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Now is a good time for a router bit installation 101.
As you can see in this picture, I have unscrewed the collet completely.
This is to show how far you should have the shank of the router bit seated.
The shank protrudes at least 5mm from the bottom of the collet jaws.
This bit is staying put!
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Headstock and final shaping.
Next I attack the headstock area with the router to get the face offset depth roughed in.
In this case I am going slightly deeper than normal to accommodate a 4mm thick face plate ( Black Walnut)
You will see that I have not routed the whole area, this is to leave some footing for the router!
Then it is time to cut the neck profile from the blank.
I prefer to use a jigsaw for no other reason than I like Jigsaws!
Once the neck is liberated from the blank it is time to glue the Headstock veneer on.
Next, lunch and a cold beer (A really tasty Steamrail, courtesy of our good Mate Wokka- Cheers Buddy!)
Until next time :)
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Oy Phil . . .
This project is truly astounding.
To see what you are capable of producing from scratch is really inspiring.
P.S. I've duly noted the dire warnings about routers - always been wary, but will henceforth be even more circumspect & never go without the safety specs.
Here's a pic of my "modded" router - a sorta lame (and vaguely) musical play on words.
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Nice one Max :)