Update:
And now....I'm back to Sanding-mode again to do some more Sanding, Sanding, Sanding, and...more Sanding of the Gold Strat body while the Matt Black paint I sprayed on the Custom Pedalboard is drying..
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Update:
And now....I'm back to Sanding-mode again to do some more Sanding, Sanding, Sanding, and...more Sanding of the Gold Strat body while the Matt Black paint I sprayed on the Custom Pedalboard is drying..
Doc think you will need to try and grain fill those grain pores once it's sanded. The paint will never fill those in. Next time you spray paint try and practice your application, going left to right, right to left, then up and down, it's like mowing the lawn try and have a tiny overlap over the last row/column you painted. Move in a steady speed and hold the nozzle 90 degrees to the surface.
With practice you will know when to stop before the paint runs.
It may also be helpful to watch a pro painter on Youtube should give you some good tips
Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
I'll have to agree with you on that mate, I think I'll just go ahead and sand it back to bare wood, then apply some Maple Timbermate to the body surface, the routes can stay the way they are cause they'll be covered-up anyway, at least I know that the Rust-Oleum Grey Primer is actually going to work with no major issues.
I guess it serves myself right for being a little impatient, at least no major harm was done anyway.
all good Doc everyone has to start somewhere. I'm sure my first paintjob probably had runs everywhere. Practice and you will improve. Think it's a good idea to sand it back and apply timbermate. You will find with painting 90% of the job is preparation. Good preparation and you may save yourself multiple coats in the future.
Even if you get a cheap can of spray paint and practice spraying on the cardboard kit box and get used a steady motion across both directions and up/down and left/right. I usually stop spraying once I am past the object, change direction then start spraying
Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
I think I will seriously consider investing in an Orbital Sander this year for sure, my right arm is already getting a bit tired, but I'm not going to let that discourage me, I'm determined to see it through, cheers for the advice mate.
And in hindsight, I really should have started out by applying the Timbermate first, rather than do what I actually did.
Maybe a good Sanding-session will help exercise my two guns....lol.
yeah Doc it's all a learning curve and an orbital sander will be a very worthwhile purchase. They are a bit noisy and dusty so you will have to use it daylight hours
Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
How much do you recon a good Orbital Sander will cost me?, I might go to the Bunnings Website and check out their pricing, my local Cash Converters store may have one I could buy at a good price, but maybe it's more worthwhile if I can invest in a brand new one, I do have a Dremel Tool with a long flexible hose-attachment on it, it also has a speed adjuster on it, I bought it at my Local Jaycar Electronics store.
Doc here's the range here. Don't get the $49 Ozito one as it doesn't have speed control.
I've used two or three of the $76 Bosch one is pretty good value
https://www.bunnings.com.au/our-rang...rbital-sanders
Quote:
Originally Posted by wokkaboy
Cheers mate, that $76.00 Bosch Random Orbital Sander sounds like it's well within my price-budget, I was hoping that a good Orbital Sander wouldn't cost me any more than $100.00, so next Fortnight, I might see if I can buy myself one, assuming my local Bunnings store has some in stock.
no worries Doc, you will need some packets of papers, get the 125mm diameter ones, they should stock 40, 80, 120, 180 and 240 grit. They are about $6 each for a pack of 5 papers. Also worth getting a decent dust mask