Good call I tried something similar on a telecaster good in theory but the whitewash just didn’t take
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Good call I tried something similar on a telecaster good in theory but the whitewash just didn’t take
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sometimes you gotta go back to move forward. Loving this build btw.👍🏾Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Barnes
Attachment 29133Attachment 29134Attachment 29135Attachment 29136Attachment 29137 I'm happy with the look now so first coat of tung oil this afternoon
Thinking about it (with obvious hindsight), it might have been better to do the white first, then try and grain fill with black filler over the top. You may then have needed another white coat after sanding back. There are enough small pores in mahogany to show the grain pattern and make it look interesting (like a Gibson 'TV yellow' finish), but it hasn't got the cross-grain figuring that flame or quilted maple has to take up a darker colour for 'popping'.
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...5&d=1543138271
That looks great!
Thanks simon. After looking at my other builds i don't think mahogany is really suitable for grain popping Attachment 29157 same process on basewood Attachment 29158and the mahogany its all a learning curveQuote:
Originally Posted by Simon Barden
Attachment 29290Attachment 29291Attachment 29292 all polished up and shiny, ready to start work on the frets but ive got 2 frets that have lifted and need to be glued back down. Anyone got any tips
Attachment 29296Attachment 29297 now i need to decide between black or crome
Check your slot depth and the roll radius you used, I typically roll them a bit tighter than the board radius whic seems to help the seat tight at the ends.Quote:
Originally Posted by Adam Barnes
There actually loose i can push the up and down, ive seen a few you tube vids were tthe use super glue to re seat the fret, looking at the photo theres actually 4 sitting highQuote:
Originally Posted by FrankenWashie