Here we go... Muzza's first build. Non PBG PRS-1TS

You'd be surprised. Those 1500 through to 4000 are handy for wet sanding as you are getting near then end of doing top coats. Much easier on the finish than 0000 steel wool.

I fix one f*&% up, and another one taunts me. The veneer I bought for the headstock turned out just terrible. The flame all but disappeared and the real grain, which is remarkably coarse, took all the stain.

I've ordered another couple of sheets of veneer, hoping that this piece was just an anomaly.

Attachment 9992

Could using sanding sealer have prevented this?

No suggestions??? C'mon guys, help me out here.

I got some replacement veneer, (from the same supplier... for the LAST TIME!) but it looks like I'm going to have the same problem. The stain soaks into the cracks in the grain and the 'flame' all but disappears.

Here is a small section of the replacement veneer doing the same thing. You can just make out the 'flame', but the grain dominates.

Attachment 10120

I got some of this 'sanding sealer' when I bought my first kit and I've never even opened it.

Attachment 10121

Do you think using some of this would help? It says on the label that it is 'Non Grain Filling'. (I was told that it's shellac based, if that means anything)

I don't know what to try next...

Well that sucks.. Not had that happen with flamed veneer...
I wonder if giving it a grain fill with some neutral timbermate would help???
The sanding sealer would most likely act as a barrier that would prevent the stain taking but then again, without experimenting I am only making a semi edumacated guess...

BTW, I actually like that burst. It is nice and moody and I reckon it suits the PRS shape.

I wonder if you can pre-saturate the veneer with something non-staining and then apply your stain so only the flame is highlighted. If I was using colortone stains mixed with alcohol/metho I'd try wetting the veneer with just metho first, getting it really soaked, and then rub in the stain. Not sure if it would work, but may be worth a try on a scrap piece.

I'm interested in this also. I just stained the back of my ES-3 with the intention of sanding it back to bring out the grain in the basswood a bit but the open pores from the way the veneer was peeled seem to take up the stain and you don't really see the grain all that well. Sounds similar to the issues you're having. I have a tub of sanding sealer that I may try on the sides and face to see if that makes a difference.

Well, I've set up a 'testing station'.

I worked out how much and which parts of the veneer wasn't going to be used, cut them off with scissors and I've titebonded them to a piece of ply. Leave them to dry overnight and go to bed! [yawn...]

Tomorrow, I'll sand them smooth and try the sanding sealer on one piece and some natural wood filler on the other.

I'll get back to you with the results.

So here's my 'experiment'...

Not ready to apply the stain yet as I've decided to try as many options as possible with the material I have on hand.

As you can see, there's not a lot of material to work with - car keys included for size reference.

I've just got to sand back the filler tomorrow and apply some more sanding sealer to two of the sections.

Attachment 10208

Oh what a feeling......let me guess, keys are for a 2005 Camry or Avalon perhaps?

Hope the experiment also gives you that 'Oh what a feeling' too.

You got the year right, but nope, they're for a 100 series V8 Landcruiser - the Double Island Point Express!