Les Paul build -Hugh

I recognize this kind of stuff on a finishing...when i did my first nitro sprayed project i collect every mistake that its been writen on a list of "bad preps and finish methods"

Humidity upper to 60%, bad sanding level, not clean surface (or insufficient), not stir the can enough, spray in a hot enviroment (over 38º) that causes the clear coat solidify before touch the surface creating white bubbles, spraying too far/near, too heavy coats...so many to consider.

After seeing yours, ¿it is possible that the surface its not enough dry and the dye reacts with the clear coat?

check out this guide
http://www.woodfinishsupply.com/LacTroubleShoot.html

Thanks guys, I'll rub it back and reapply the finish in very thin coats. The weather is meant to be a little cooler the next week or so and Ill try to keep an eye on the humidity ....hopefully things go well this time

G'day Hugh, this happened to me a few times on my EX-5.

Do not be in a hurry to sand back with steel wool as it looks like the last couple of coats were still green and not fully cured and if you touch it too soon it will end in tears.

Woks is right on the money regarding clean rags as old T-shirts have had all the crap washed out of them and you should aim to cut up about 70mm x 70mm squares and use folded over a few times as per DB's vid on the home page.

Patience at this stage is as crucial as timing any humidity.

Hi Waz
Why do say 'don't be in a hurry to sand back with steel wool'? What is the alternative to this? ..are you worried that it's not dry??

G'day Hugh, I have used 0000 steel wool a few times only to find the prior coat was still green after 7 days left to cure and it just rolled up into gummy little messy balls of crud all over the surface. This happened on 3 different occasions much to my disgust and eventually reverted to wet sanding as that didn't cause the surface to take on the resemblance of a pizza base once the topping has been removed.

Lately I have been using micro mesh pads wet that have grits 4000, 6000, 8000 and 12000 and you would be surprised just how much the 4000 pad can cut through. Same for 6000 but as you get up to 8000 this is where they act more in a polishing fashion. Secret is in keeping the surface slightly wet and wiping off the shite regularly with a damp cloth so that you don't drag it back over things and therefore create scratches or gouges in the finish.

Can understand wanting to rush in and finish things off but found DT needs more time once 3 or more intensifier coats have been applied. Gave up on DT top coat as it was no better for curing times either however some other folk have had better outcomes than me and suppose it comes down to overall humidity and the effect that has on curing times.

Ok thanks Waz
For now I have rubbed it back, basically getting rid of all the finish coats and applied a coat of DT intensifier. I'll give that some time to cure then give it a light rub then decide what I'll do next in a few days. It will be sure to be a light coating of either intensifier or finish depending on whether I'm happy with the colour.
If I went down the wet sanding, when is the best time to do it??

At least a week, 10 or 14 days would be better as that gives it more time to cure and harden up.

Attachment 9773
Ok so I rubbed it back with 0000 steel wool. I then applied a couple of layers of the Intensifying coat (I was all out af the stain coat thanks to the Darl getting her hands on it and doing a little craft work.. :( ).
I think I may have lost a little of the colour intensity, but it still looks ok. It's just put my build back 5 or 6 weeks however.. I've still got to reapply the finishing layers, so I am at least a month off putting it together sadly....

PS.. Happy and Safe Easter everyone :cool:

Bummer Hugh. I feel your pain. Its hard but sometime I say whats a few weeks when the finish is going to last forever.

True Andy, I'm fast coming to that conclusion myself..