[QUOTE=Groovyman32;214298]That looks awesome Mark!
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Thanks. I’d be happy to use it again.
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[QUOTE=Groovyman32;214298]That looks awesome Mark!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE
Thanks. I’d be happy to use it again.
I’m done with the soft finish and continually burning through and fixing. So this morning I did this:
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...406d9ee944.jpg
I’ve got some Rustins Plastic Coating… [emoji1696]
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The progress has been slow over the last couple of weeks.
Re-staining took a little while until I got something I was happy with. I then put on a few coats of shellac sanding sealer before applying the RPC. I found the shellac quite difficult to work with. I'd not used it before but it seemed to go very sticky quickly after application. So it seems you have one or two drags with the cloth before it gets all messy. Anyway after some faff and some light sanding it looked really nice - a subtle sheen gave it a healthy woody looking glow. At this point I considered just going with some wax.
But... nah - I crashed on with the RPC. I seem to be really sensitive to chemical odours - and RPC really does stink. Despite using a spray mask and goggles it did not do my head any good. But I got three coats on in about six hours or so. It looks a bit of dogs dinner at the moment but I think it has potential.
The lessons learnt are that you need way less than you think. The instructions say put it on "liberally" as it it's self levelling. My first coat was way too liberal as I ended up with a ton of runnage which was difficult to control and took a load of sanding back once it dried. Anyway, I mixed 200ml of it using the coverage from the docs. But I was a out by mile as I only used 50ml of it for three coats.
It says it's polishable after 12-24 hrs - But I'm going to leave it a few more days. I've ordered some more wet/dry paper as stuff I was using from Amazon for a few quid seems like junk - so when that arrives I'll try to make it shine.
What mixing ratio did you use?Quote:
I then put on a few coats of shellac sanding sealer before applying the RPC. I found the shellac quite difficult to work with. I'd not used it before but it seemed to go very sticky quickly after application. So it seems you have one or two drags with the cloth before it gets all messy.
I rarely go any heavier than a "1 lb cut" and admit it can dry fast especially the first few coats on raw timber. What I have found (I guess you also) is not to be too fussed about strokes in the first few coats. Once the shellac has developing a build, then level sand it. Subsequent coats will then lay down much smoother.
FYI:
An approximate "metric" 1lb cut = 12g shellac flake per 100ml of alcohol [aka: denatured alcohol; methylated spirit]
And it's worth paying a bit extra to get 100% ethyl alcohol rather than the cheaper stuff you find at Joe Bogg's Hardware Store. That stuff is usually 95% ethyl alcohol and can actually contain a % of water. Water + Shellac = Bad. The flakes dissolve quicker and better in the pure stuff also.
I've been down the chap Amazon wet and dry paper route. And threw it all away. Backing paper was far to hard; didn't soften when soaked and cracked when bent. Also the grit just fell off the paper. The stuff from Halfords is pretty good if you need some in a hurry. I tend to get Mirka or Kligspor now when buying from Amazon.
The stuff I got was premixed:
https://www.barrettinepro.co.uk/25/3...Sanding-Sealer
It says the final coat could be applied with 50/50 methylated spirit - which I tired, but it didn't help. The biggest problem was over the darker sides of the body. The front and back looked fine when sanded back but the sides just looked liked I'd hacked at it with sandpaper.
Anyway it took a little work to get it back to the "not too bad" stage. Once I applied the RPC it looked fine.
I learned with dry paper not skimp on it. I started using Allan Calder's sanding supplies (https://www.sandpapersupplies.co.uk/). Allan's paper (RhinoGrip I think) is so much nicer to use. It doesn't clog up nearly as easily as the Amazon crap and when it does a quick brush with a towel gets it back to almost new again. It might be a more expensive but you use so much less of it.
Unfortunately Allan doesn't seem to do wet 'n dry so I've ordered some from the polishing shop (https://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/). I think the brand is Matador. If I don't get on with that I'll try the brands you've suggested - thanks!
I spent a little while before lunch dry sanding with some of Allan's best P800 vintage and the body has cleaned up really nicely. I've got it pretty flat now - I'll leave it now until the new WnD paper arrives.
I'm just terrified I'm going to burn through - again!! :eek:
I'm surprised the Australian Government doesn't see the opportunity there!
This is the stuff I get from an antique furniture restoration supply business. It is labelled as "industrial", don't know if that makes any difference in its taxability. I pay $10/L for this stuff vs $4 from the BGS or grocery store.
Attachment 41443
I use plenty of the cheap stuff for general purpose uses and with dyes, but the pure stuff is reserved just for making shellac.