It's arrived!
Nothing spectacular this time (cough cough).
A straightforward work-horse that resembles an iconic scheme.
Attachment 30482
cheers, Mark.
Printable View
It's arrived!
Nothing spectacular this time (cough cough).
A straightforward work-horse that resembles an iconic scheme.
Attachment 30482
cheers, Mark.
Everything looks to be in good nick.
Attachment 30483
Neck isn't what I'd describe as a tight fit, but certainly no gaps.
I'll be using an original 4 screw Fender bridge plate...any day now.
Probably be the standard yellow/black colour.
Not so much into 'relic-ing' but not a glossy finish either.
Function-over-form, so there's what's called an 'elbow' cut and a 'belly' (more like 'rib cage' for me).
I'll also be using the non-asymetrical neck plate.
cheers, Mark.
Once again going with 'vintage' style tuners.
Only 8mm so it's out with the dowels again.
Attachment 30484
I'll have extra sheets of veneer left after my JM-1 re-finish.
Attachment 30485
Attachment 30486
cheers, Mark.
Look forward to watching this unfold.
Hi Mark. There won't be too much involved in this one.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkMark
I'll probably just use the kit pickups for the outset.
Everything else is being collected.
i.e. vintage 8mm tuners.
3 way switch.
Switchcraft style input jack.
Asymetric neck plate.
Lot's of elbow grease today with the rasp and sandpaper.
I've got the elbow and tummy cuts done.
There was sharp edges to the frets and discover about 9 of them required some reduction.
Usually try to include some photo's in every post but dropped the ball today.
I'll get some progress shots up tomorrow.
cheers, Mark.
I’ll be watching this with interest having just ordered the same kit virtually.
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Cheers, If I run into any issues I'll document them here.Quote:
Originally Posted by I’ll give it a go
Will try to get this up and playing well before any finish goes on.
Have to wait for the bridge to turn up before much else.
So far...
Attachment 30488
Rear belly cut
Attachment 30489
Scale length. With the neck inserted, long steel ruler either side.
Then determine centre. Then measure the 25.5" from the nut.
Attachment 30490
Meanwhile headstock re-dowel/ re-drill. Waiting on veneer.
Attachment 30491
Cheers, Mark.
You’ve done some great work already.
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Looking sweeet!
When you fix the bridge and your measuring halfway to the 12 fret from the nut. Then again down to the bridge where the strings sit or rest. Those things are movable to get the intonations so how can it be accurate ?
I’m thinking about the pit bull video.
The scale length needs to be within the amount of adjustment of the bridge. Usually the best place to aim for is with the high E string fairly close (but not all they way) to it's front most point of adjustment. This gives you heaps of room to move the other strings back as that's usually the case with scale length.Quote:
Originally Posted by I’ll give it a go
Cheers Bakersdozen makes sense.
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The 25.5" mark is where the high 'E' saddle should sit.Quote:
Originally Posted by I’ll give it a go
Give it a couple of mm extra forward travel and it should be O.K.
[edit] Doh! bakersdozen I hadn't noticed your response.
cheers, Mark.
Sunday arvo's work.
Attachment 30500
cheers, Mark
Sexxi Phat curves!
Cheers, Andy.
I'm continuing the theme I used on the strat-tele build.
Which reminds me, I made a pig's dinner of the string-through holes.
Browsing the youtube, I came across this one....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5SZA03DVITA
I may test it out on something non-important first.
cheers, Mark.
One last one until some hardware arrives.
Attachment 30502
cheers, Mark
Brilliant video. I will need to do one of those jigs for when I plan to do string through as part of an upgrade to both of my Tele's.Quote:
Originally Posted by king casey
I like the idea that it's aimed at the 'agricultural' technician such as I.Quote:
Originally Posted by wazkelly
A couple of items showed up in the post today.
Attachment 30506
The saddles from ebay were described in the main title 'compensated'.
However when they arrived I found it not so. Going back to gander at the pictures and I should have moved on.
Attachment 30507
Anyway I have had a look at the 'issue' some folk have with the bridge placing.
Compared to the Squier Telecaster, this one seems about a centimeter longer.
The black scratch plate is original Squier, yet when placed tight to the neck pocket, the bridge and controls are a centimeter further south.
Attachment 30508
I've compensated somewhat by screwing the saddles further back than ideal.
Probably cut a scratch plate a tad longer front to back also to bring things into visual proportion.
cheers, Mark.
It’s almost like they do this on purpose to make things harder. By the sounds of it you have it well under control.
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It pays to delve into the build diary section on whatever project you are going to have a go at.Quote:
Originally Posted by I’ll give it a go
There have been several with issues regarding the 'TL' so I took it as a challenge.
This is keeping me busy whilst waiting for veneer to finish my JM-1 (build number 2)
cheers, Mark.
Decision time.
The bridge has to move back a small amount to give optimum intonation leeway.
The limitation of movement is only a couple of mm, due to the front of the rout emerging from under the front of the bridge.
If I was going for a solid colour there would be the option of filling the front edge.
As it's initially a wood stain, I'm just doing the mimimum movement required.
Attachment 30513
As you can see this means the standard pickguard is aesthetically out of place.
I'll cobble one up initially from some offcut I have laying around.
Attachment 30514
cheers, Mark.
Compromise is reached.
Any further back and the front of the rout will start showing.
I reckon there's now plenty of leeway for intonating.
Attachment 30515
cheers, Mark.
It looks like the pics haven’t loaded properly or my internet here is crap, but the icon shows a cracked pic.
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I can see them fine. I do find that on mobile sometimes they don't show up if loaded using the forum uploader.
hotlink of the last one:
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...5&d=1555371384
Yep I’m on my old mobile so that’s probably it. I’ll have a look on the iPad when I get back to my room.
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I hope that's it, otherwise I can't see what's wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by I’ll give it a go
Here's the day's progress. Still have to cut the pickup hole, but the main concern for now is the bridge/control section.
Attachment 30530
No sign of the neck plate, or jack plate and 3 way switch yet, so plenty of time for that.
cheers, Mark
Looks good, gap looks correct and like it will all line up. I'd wait to drill pick guard/control plate holes until you have the neck fitted so you can do any fine tuning to the pick guard to get it all nice and straight. Looks like there is a little overhang on the neck pocket, so it might be all good anyway once rotated a little.
Cheers, Sonic. Yes I have a bit of 'finessing' to do yet.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
I still have to screw down the bridge plate as it doesn't sit properly as yet.
In reflection, I'm now considering leaving the neck pickup out altogether.
I already have a Tele with one anyway, and opt for something different.
cheers, Mark.
I was going to say it looks really tidy without the neck pickup. Some day down the road you could put a Hotrails or something in it to make it a 'sleeper'
By that you mean mount a pickup under the pickguard?Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic Mountain
Must admit that would be a good option.
I did order an 'upgrade' 3 way selector switch...would be a waste in the drawer.
An empty switch slot wouldn't be a good look either.
cheers Mark.
No I mean put a hot rails in the bridge position so you get a humbucker option there. You could split it as well to have the single coil via the 3 way switch so the controls all look normal.
But maybe you could mount a pickup underneath. The plastic wouldn't be a barrier, but getting the pickup height where you want it might be difficult.
I wonder if you could put a piezo pickup in the neck cavity?
I can see this pic on my mobile, looks really good so far. Looking forward to see how the rest goes together.Quote:
Originally Posted by king casey
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Could do Esquire style wiring?
Hey that's a good suggestion.Quote:
Originally Posted by Richy17
cheers, Richy.
Sonic, I'll definitely look into that also.
At some stage I'll think about 'upgrading'.
cheers, Mark.
[edit] Oh yeah. The flame maple veneer showed up this afternoon.
Attachment 30531
Back to a blank canvas.
Attachment 30533
Next task to address the other end of the neck.
cheers, Mark
Neck plate mod
Attachment 30540
Bonus, the original 3 holes line up.
Attachment 30541
Now I'm adopting an idea that I saw Grant (neverwas) accomplish.
Attachment 30542
Before and After.
Gee, it really improves access to the dusty end.
cheers, Mark.
That’s looks awesome, and this is all because the back plate doesn’t always line up straight with the back of the body? That’s what I’ve read so far anyway.
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No, the asymetrical neck plate is a common modification.Quote:
Originally Posted by I’ll give it a go
Often it seems the pre-drilled holes don't match with the supplied neck plate.
It just means you have to dowel them up and drill 'correct' ones.
You may just get lucky.
[edit] Progress shot
Attachment 30548
cheers, Mark.
You can also just slightly enlarge the pre drilled holes. The screws usually bind up in them a bit anyway. The screws don't need to bite into the body to make the join secure, its all about clamping force. If you enlarge the holes slightly then progressively tighten the screws in an 'X' pattern it will normally square up.
This is looking great BTW King.