Have shown some pics already in the welcome section - sorry any repeats.
This is the kit out of the box. Quite helpful to get the scratch plate drilled and attached.
Printable View
Have shown some pics already in the welcome section - sorry any repeats.
This is the kit out of the box. Quite helpful to get the scratch plate drilled and attached.
Headstock - cut with fretsaw and shaped using 60 grade sandpaper.
Body sanded to 400 grit
Here are photos of the front (flash and no flash) and rear of the stained guitar body.
Initially the stained top edge was very dark - almost obscuring the grain, however after 4 days the color has now mellowed and the stain on the top edge also looks just fine. Am very pleased indeed with the colour.
Great job! That Nullabor Ochre is the business. The grain just looks fantastic. Looking forward to seeing how your build develops.
cheers,
Gav.
Good natural tones happening there.
Hi folks.
A quick question.
I am looking at a custom waterslide decal for the headstock. I might get some paper and try to make my own, but i also found a cool looking company that makes a nice looking ultra-thin product with metallic inks etc. However, it had a warning that you cannot use their waterslide decals on guitars with oil finishes.
I am planning on using Dingotone clear on the neck and headstock ... which I think is a blend of oils and waxes ? I'm a little confused as I am certainly not seeing any other queries or mentions of problems r.e. using waterslide decals with Dingotone on this website - videos suggest can apply after intensifier coat ? Any advice re decals and their application would be welcomed. Thanks
Did you consider acrylic or nitro spray can over decals?
Hey DJP, nice work so far. I think the TLA-1R is a great first build. I am currently doing one at the moment and so is Bungee...)I wonder how Bungee's going?). Sorry theres not much on my build diary now but I picked up some great tips from Bungee regarding some pre-drilled holes etc. I can't comment on DT over decals I have only used Nitro, which worked just fine. Wokkaboy may know as he uses DT a lot (just not sure about the finish). Waterslide decal paper isn't expensive (I think I got a fair bit for about $20 and it came within a couple of days), so a safe option would be to print out a test and apply to scrap wood and try the final coat over the top.
Thats a great idea. I will get some decals made up and try on some scrap.
Wow - the intensifier coat really ..... intensified the grain contrast ! Attachment 8260 It has covered really well and I think I will probably stop after applying this one coat, and move on to the first top coat next week.
Can I suggest waiting at least two weeks. The colour will continue to intensify and you may discover areas you have missed once this happens. I little bit of patience can lead to a better result.Quote:
Originally Posted by DJP
That seems sound advice. I am so pleased with the finish so far it would be a shame to spoil it for a handful of days !
Wot Fretty sed :)
It is nice to see someone take their time with the finish, most problems happen when people rush the finishing......
I dont know how many times I say this, but the finish is what makes or breaks a build.
And when you consider that the Guitar should last a lifetime, whats a few weeks or even months spent on the finish?
Thanks Dingobass. I have to admity - I usually mess things like this up due to impatience and rushing ahead. However, having seen what can be achieved some beautiful builds in the diaries on this site, I am keen to take my time. Two quick questions.
1) Waterslide decals - I found a site making beautiful ultra thin multicolour ones in a metallic ink. However they stated their waterslides are not suitable for an oil finished surface. However - I seem to see plenty of folks applying decals in this forum. I am assuming that a waterslide should go over the first topcoat of Dingotone without too much of an issue ? Would that be correct ?
2) What you reckon about this weather in Perth - I just bought a weatherstation at JCarto monitor humidity, but with the forthcoming heatwave, might it be worth holding off tonights plans for putting a stain on the neck ? My current motto is if in doubt - don't !
Thanks
OK. I've done something I've never managed before. Been patient when building something and waited between coats !. I am pretty happy with the DT top coats on the body. 4 coats applied. Colour is great. Pretty even finish - a few minor flat / dull spots where the angle of the grain changes, but very minor You have to look close and I reckon the Dingowax should help.
Attachment 9517
The neck was more problematic. The DT top coats were very patchy. Some areas of grain were glossy and others very dull where the topcoat did not take. After applying 4 top coats I started to get quite despondent. I had applied light steel wool before coats and appled quite thinly as directed, but the patchy finish was not improving on the headstock - although the back of the neck improved slightly. I was particularly worried about applying a waterslide decal over the pretty patchy headstock finish. So whilst applying wirewool before topcoat #5 - I changed tactics. I gently applied 600 grit sand paper over the whole neck. It certainly evened out the patchy finish - in fact it looked great. Could have stopped then. However -still worrying about whether a waterslide decal would take to the DT I went to the big green shed for some White Knight Acrylic (thinking that with my newly learned patience - I could always start over again if it failed). I tried it on a piece of wood that I had previously tested the DT stain and top coat on. It seemed to take. I have now sprayed one thin coat and the finish is better than I could have dreamed. A beautiful even gloss. So far so good ! Attachment 9518
Headstock Decal
Attachment 9519
Nice looking Tele build you have there, the Nullabor Ochre finish looks great, I've got Coolangatta Gold on my Strat build, Wokkaboy suggested using some Ebony Timbermate to darken the grain so it would really pop, and it worked a treat.
Yes. The grain in that Gold Standard strat of yours is awesome. Its far from standard.:)
Quote:
Originally Posted by DJP
But in a strange way it just seems to work with the Coolangatta Gold, it has that "Hand Made" vibe to it, it should look even better once all the finish work has been done and it's all dry, the neck is pretty much done and dusted.
First off, your build is looking great. Second, I played it safe with mine and put 2 coats of spray lacquer on the face of the headstock, then the decal, then one more coat of spray lacquer, and it seemed to work well. I used a product made by Behlen (stringed instrument lacquer).Quote:
Originally Posted by DJP
Thanks. I think I will do the same. Add another coat to the headstock and then apply the Decal.
Hey DJP that tele is coming up looking very nice, nullabor ochre is an under-rated colour for sure !
OK - So the headstock decal worked out nicely !
Attachment 9571
Shielding completed.
Attachment 9572
Ready to learn soldering !
Attachment 9573
Wired and tested. It works !
Attachment 9574
Fretboard oiled. Tuners nwxt then time to bolt on neck.Attachment 9575
Tuners in place.
Attachment 9578
Neck bolted on ....
.Attachment 9579
Aaargh. Help.
Ok. So after a dream first build - it has gone pear shaped literally on the last 2 screws !
When attempting to fix the first string guide - the screw snapped. It looked for a while like I was having success gripping the end of it with a pair of pliers and back rotating it out, BUT then ..... it snapped again, and it is now impossible to get a grip on it. I was so pleased with the headstock - now I am devastated.
Any ideas ? One thought I had was to try and source some small washers a little wider than the post which I could use as a base to sit the post on. Then I could perhaps screw in the post immediately next to the broken screw, and perhaps hide the stump of the broken screw under the washer. Otherwise it will just look like I have an old nail sticking out the headstock !
Attachment 9675
If you don't think you can (or want risk trying to) remove the broken screw, you may be able to use a roller string tree to hide it. If you can get the broken screw end flush with the headstock face then a little careful positioning may allow the block body of the roller tree to hide it for you while still having enough room for the new screw position.
Thanks. That is certainly kind of what I was thinking - and I think will be my first avenue of attack. The wall of the tree seems close to the thickness of the broken screw, so I might be able to get it to cover it. Unfortunately the broken screw is standing slightly proud of the surface. Alternately, as I was thinking, maybe seating a small chromed washer underneath the base of the tree could work, and not look too odd. I've also noticed that the small black rubber washer in the straplock that came with the kit could also fit under the block body of the roller tree - and that could be another solution - but perhaps not as good (I bought some Ernie Ball straplocks - so these are spare). In many respects it will be hard to spot the screw head - especially when the tree is in place ... but I know it is there !
Hey DJP sure you will find a way to cover the broken screw and no one will ever know - other than you and the forum haha
The washer solution at the base of the tree post seems the best option. The big green shed had several styles. I bought them all ! One in particular looks really useful - I reckon even I could forget it is hiding a broken screw. However - the big green shed only have big ugly screws, and finding a dainty one of the correct size to match the screw post looks like the next big challenge !
SUCCESS .... managed to hide broken screw. Thanks for the comments. I went with my idea of a washer ... it worked better than I hoped. It also kind of works because there are also washers at the base of the tuners. I also finished with a very very light acrylic spray around the area at the base of the post as the finish had lifted very slightly around the broken screw - plus the washers from the big green shed may need a little extra rust-proofing !
Attachment 9699
Fantastic job DJP! Can't notice it at all and what a good work around the problem. When can we see the final pics?
FINISHED
Attachment 9727
Attachment 9728
Attachment 9730Attachment 9729
Very happy. Great feeling to play something you have made yourself.
Thanks for the helpful comments and encouragement.
Nice Bro! Great cover up on the broken string tree mounting screw, it's little whoopsies like that can really send you off the deep end at the 11th hour. The grain figuring on the rear is sweet. Awesome Job, how does it sound?
Great work well done, looks a treat, hows it sound?