The Not White GR-1sf. It's gone brown burst.

the original thread starts here. http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=3206

This build was planned to be white when I ordered the kit. This decision was based on the lack of any clear vision of any grain in the promo pics. While it would have been so much beter if it had a nce flame maple,

When I receivd the kit there was no evidence of any grain on the deck of this guitar kit.
I had just watched a Youtube vid of poping grains and thought. well why not do it to this kit. If nothing comes up then I'll paint it white.
I bought a medium pot of natural coloured timber mate.(should have got the small one) I then mixed it down to a very sloppy slurry that was the consistency of a tin of water based acrylic paint from the Big Green shed(oops NR again). I then added U-Beaut colour to it. 1 part black, 4 parts Cedar. I then applied this all over the body and neck. I let this dry overnight. then rubbed it back.

And Oh wow there actually was a grain pattern on the body, and a nice soft burl in the maple neck.

It shows that if you don't have a go you'll never never know. I have seen vids before of people renovating Gits, to find wonderful grains under a thick layer of Nitro(yeah yeah DB I know NR) Building a One off kit from PBG always has to be a process of discovery. If you go in with fixed ideas that you are going to build a solid purple(or white) guitar then you are only cheating yourself. Aproach your build with some level of flexability as you may find a hidden surprise that you should show to the world.
A good craftsman works with the materails he has and not with just a piece of wood. Creation is a work of art. it is more than just a skill..

Cheers PK
First Fleeter

Yep that grain's a keeper. Nice score:-)

Tks Barge, I appriecaite that you see the beauty in this grain.

PK

well done Paul, you've made the right decision

Worked in a bit more brown, and then coated with tung oil

This is actually a cedar colour. I tried using Feast Wastetime Cedar Proof Tint but it just comes out Red, not brown.

This is a hand rubbed burst so may appear to be a little strong around the fade.

The current stain is a walnut oil based stain.

Oh wow Paul, that figure is looking so subtle and has a very vintage look to it. I'm glad you put away the paint tin. This is going to be a stunner.

rob

coming along nicely PK.
I got an ES3 kit in the sale I will definitely be staining it if the grain is as nice as this kit

Tks Rob & Wokk

It's a very slow process using oil based stains, but it will get there eventually. usually a day between layers. even if it is just a rub around the edge.

Cheers PK

Looking forward to see what you have planned for this guitar ref hardware and final finish.great job
Kimball

Tks Kimb,

I have gold as well as the chrome so I'll dress it up in both a bit further down the track to see how it looks. With the brown tones I am leaning back towards the chrome. But we'll wait and see. :)

Cheers PK

The brown burst is comming up a treat.
Still trying to get it darker up around the neck

PK

looking good PK, see if you can fade the transition of the burst a bit more but it's getting close

thks Wokk.

I'll hit it with a bit of 0000 steel wool to see if I can get the blend back a bit. What I have been trying to do is get the depth of brown out on the edge up near the neck to the same depth as the tail end. I might have to put some of the water based brown on it and then overcoat it with the Walnut. But getting the depth of the fade right has been difficult. On the teil its 20-30 mm, up on the neck it's 50-100. Maybe if I did it in 30 mm strips and just keep layering.

Ive been doing 30 mm strips aroudnd the edge, but it's been too wet when I have tried to blen it and it just wipe down to where it is now.


PK

Hi PK. I think Once you hit it with the steel wool it'll bring it to life looking great makes me want to build one

That is looking brilliant PK.

I'm very keen to have a crack at a GR in the not too distant future and a post on TDPRI about model planes got me thinking about a natural finish.

Back in the day when I were but a pup and building control line planes we use nitrocellulose dope ( clear and coloured ) on both the tissue and balsa which gave a very fine and glassy surface when finished with care.

Time to check out the model shops and experiment a bit, if they still carry it it may be a decent option.

Just thinking out loud through a glass of Shiraz

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dave.king1

That is looking brilliant PK.

I'm very keen to have a crack at a GR in the not too distant future and a post on TDPRI about model planes got me thinking about a natural finish.

Back in the day when I were but a pup and building control line planes we use nitrocellulose dope ( clear and coloured ) on both the tissue and balsa which gave a very fine and glassy surface when finished with care.

Time to check out the model shops and experiment a bit, if they still carry it it may be a decent option.

Just thinking out loud through a glass of Shiraz

---

SWEET! My granddad and I used to build balsa planes. We went the free flight route. Belonged to a group called S.A.M.

Kells your guitar has a very 40's look and feel to it right. Very cool. :)

oooohhh, nice, like Rob said, it looks 40's, I like it very much

Tks Stan.
I've rubbed back the horn/neck areas quite a bit and have now put a heavy layer of stain around the edge. got to wait for that to dry. with 32 deg C today that shouldn't take long. :)

PK

The burst is looking great PK. Will really look amazing with some clear on there!

cheers,
Gav.

Tks Gav,

I've taken the horn area right back to about 30-40 mm from the edge. It's looking like a real relick, might just call it the Relick from now on. lol
It is developing that very worn vintage look. Still got a bit more work to do on the fade.

looking better each pic you post PK, it is starting to look like a vintage top for sure. Keep up the good work and get onto that classy axe rack

Gav, I am torn over the Clear.

I could go with what I know and that's clear Schellac, or
I could go with Clear Varnish(not a real fan of this though), or
I could go with Kryllic(totally unskilled with this and could Farc it up).

I suppose I could visit the gun shop and ge something more Tru... :)

PK


PK

PK this is coming along nicely and like the recent change to the burst. For the clear I'm thinking naughty oil but maybe a more satin finish would suite the vintage look?

with that vintage look, shellac would be fine, would make it look a bit like an old violin

Just thought I should add this, this deck is being layerd with small rags. No brushing, no spraying.
the only time a brush has been used is in applying the brown tinted timber-mate.

Cutting back is being done with 0000 super fine steel wool

The back of this thing is smooth like a babies bum. the front will get there too, but there is a lot of layering going on around the edges to build that brown burst effect. I say brown as it is abit darker than a tobacco burst being Walnut stain

:)

PK

I'm liking the clearer sections on the horns , makes the guitar look bigger and more vintage.

Looking better and better with each photo PK!

cheers,
Gav.

She's coming up real nice PK, that burst is looking sweet. So you're going with a satin clear?

Tks Barge.

Yeah a high gloss I think might be too much. definitely something with a sheen though.

The other perspectives of this build are coming along nicely.

Back and sides

Yeah yeah I know the binding has to be cleaned up. I took the masking tape off it as it was starting to gumm up and drag across the body.

PK

wow, very nice indeed PK

some very nice grain in the back and sides PK, colour looks great.
You're game putting products in the DB banned list in photos haha

@Stan. @Wokka

Tks Stan.

Wokks, ooops. But hey it's pure Tung oil and not laced with Polyurethane. The other end of all those jars is the Shellac. :)

PK

oh ok maybe tung oil isn't on the DB banned list can't recall !
It's good stuff hey ! Love smothering fingerboards in it

@Wokka

Tks Wok,
I am trying to stick with stuff I know how to work with. My attempts at Kryllic was a bit of a failure, the Black is still sittin in my music room waiting for a gloss on the deck.
With builds like an archtop I found shellac was a bit difficault to work with once you get a lot of layers up. The metho starts to burn off the underlying layers. and it is hard to get it even with an up and down. surface.
I've done a couple with Tung oil (laced with that Poly stuff) and they have come up a treat. with the Poly-Tung if you don't seal the grain it comes up like a beautiful naughahyde finsh. If you fill the grain it comes up in a nice solid low sheen finish.
Both times I've used have been on a flat deck scratch builds.
As to what finish goes on this well time will tell, but DB won't be told. ;)


Cheers PK
Jack of all trades master of None

I think I just wet mah pants.
Found this scratch plate which would be perfect on this build. Unfortunately at about $80 to get it landed is just out of scope for those of us living in the land of the great unemployed.
The Black one would be perfect for this build.

PK

I could probably do something similar to that if you like.

@pablo

Tks Pab. Definitely worth a try.
that one is made out of 1.5mm alloy and coloured, but ABS is good enough for me.

It's just a standard ES335 Dot pick guard size. 58.5 mm between pups.

My feeling with that one is it has that Vintage Cigar box look which is where this build has gone, with the Vintage 'Relick' look about it.


PK
Jack of all trades, Master of None

Cheers PK

I work in acrylic, I'll do a few demo thingees up this week and see how it goes.