First Build ATL-1 thinline

Good day all,
I am super excited for this. Received the kit today even though tracking said it was still in NY awaiting release. lol.

Opened and everything present and accounted for...but I noticed I ordered the wrong finish. Really wanted quilt but ordered spalted maple top. I guess that means that this can be my test run and I can then get another!

Plan on dying it blue and ordered Keda Dye kit. My question is what would be a good sealer over the body and do I use the same for the maple neck, or something different.

Thanks in advance, Ill just be sanding away here...

Welcome to the forum BP. I have the same kit. high five:cool:. did you get the black or white binding?

Hi and welcome.

With a blue finish, I'd avoid any of the linseed oil based finishes like Tru-Oil, Tung Oil etc. as they do have a significant yellow tint to them and you'll end up with a green guitar.

So you then really have a choice of clear wipe-on polyurethane, polyurethane spray, acrylic spray or nitro spray.

If you have an all-maple neck, then you can do it in the same finish as the body, or you could do that with Tru-Oil (or similar) or even a wax finish. Maple can look dirty very quickly if it has no finish at all, and some sort of surface sealing is recommended to minimise moisture content changes which can warp the neck or cause the fretboard to shrink exposing the fret ends.

With a rosewood board on a maple neck, you'd do the headstock, rear of the neck and sides of the fretboard, but leave the fretboard natural. Use lemon oil on the fretboard every 6 months.

With all methods, it's a case of getting enough finish on so that you can sand it flat without getting back to the wood, and then polishing it to a smooth shine.

You really need to have a look around at similar builds to see what people have done and how they've got on.

Cheers Andy!
I got the black.

Welcome BP

So started staining and there are some splotches where the stains didn’t take. I assume this is glue. Can I get some advice on what to do next? I read where the veneer is wicked thin and should not be sanded...I did sand a little already though .

Hindsight being 20/20, one thing you can do (prior to applying stain) is methodically wiping down the body (lightly) with metho a small area at a time. The metho will help highlight the spots of glue to be removed with an acetone-based solvent.

That said, your only option I can see at this point (and now you can clearly identify the problem spots) is try and remove them with Goof-Off/Goo-Gone/Acetone. Some use a wire brush but I find wire a bit too aggressive on veneer so I use a small stiff plastic bristled brush followed by light sanding with p240.

The tricky bit in your case will be matching the freshly cleaned, sanded areas with the application of the new stain. The good news is it's doable. Just take your time and work methodically and progressively and you'll get there.

Thanks McCreed. Bout where I thought I was. Appreciate the help.

Before I go too crazy, I read in another post that the parts where the stain is not adhering could be oil and to wash with dish soap?

Is this a possibility?
TIA

It's a remote possibility. Most oils would show up as a darker patch on the wood, though there might be some that wouldn't. PVA glue is the most likely cause.