Baritone conversion

Since Simon kindly pointed out to me that my idea to convert a WL-1 kit to a baritone probably wasn't going to work, I've been looking for alternative kit conversions and have been thinking perhaps I'll order an SGB-30 kit to convert instead.

The scale length is already the 30" I was looking for, so there shouldn't be any backwards movement of the bridge to contend with. Obviously the nut, bridge, and tuners would all have to be swapped out for six string versions, but that should be ok (I think?)

The main issue I see is that the SGB-30 has a nut width of 42mm, which is at least a few mm less wide than would be ideal.

I suppose my question is, are there any issues I'm not seeing?

One of our original luthiers converted a HB kit into a baritone. Read through his build diary, it will probably expose any issues.

http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=2442

Great! Thanks so much Fretworn

42mm isn't that bad. A lot of guitar necks are 42mm - a standard LP nut is 43mm wide, though they often need trimming slightly at the ends.

The bass neck will widen out more than a guitar neck up the frets, but it should only be slightly wider. I don't know about the kit neck, but my Strats are 56mm wide at the 20th fret, my LPs are 58mm wide at the 20th fret whilst my Lakland P Bass copy is 60mm wide at the 20th fret. The only watch-it here is that you'll need to find a bridge to match the slightly wider string spacing. Schaller normally do bridges with a reasonable level of adjustment on.

So you''l be getting a neck that's very slightly narrower at the nut end and slightly wider at the body end. If you aren't worried about upper fret access, then the lower 12 frets are going to feel pretty similar to a normal guitar neck. You can always shave some wood off the back of the neck if you want a slightly slimmer feel.

Don't forget that you'll want an unrouted body, or one routed for humbuckers. You'll also need to decide if you want pickguard-loaded controls and keep all routing on the front, or a rear control cavity.

Thanks heaps Simon, good things to think about. I figure I'll get a custom job with just the neck and humbucker routes, and also without the bridge holes drilled. Will do some research RE: bridge spacing, but might go with single string bridges as I quite like the aesthetic.

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Originally Posted by JohnH

Thanks heaps Simon, good things to think about. I figure I'll get a custom job with just the neck and humbucker routes, and also without the bridge holes drilled. Will do some research RE: bridge spacing, but might go with single string bridges as I quite like the aesthetic.

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I am using some from this mob: https://abm-guitarpartsshop.com/ABM-...s:::256_3.html

They are sturdy, really well made and SHINY!!:) It’s a bit of fiddling to set up but i think well worth it for the aesthetic appeal.

That would certainly work.

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Originally Posted by FrankenWashie

I am using some from this mob: https://abm-guitarpartsshop.com/ABM-...s:::256_3.html

They are sturdy, really well made and SHINY!!:) It’s a bit of fiddling to set up but i think well worth it for the aesthetic appeal.

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Yeah, they look nice. Totally what I had in mind