Mike's build #2: STA-1

I have been inspired by some of the lovely Tru-oiled "natural" finished strats on this forum, and decided to do something similar.
Kit ordered, and now begins the waiting game. Went with a black pickguard.

I've never worked with an ash body before - any tips from the experts? I know I should use timbermate, not sure what colour, but I want to go with a dark stain (rosewood?) to match the fretboard. Also don't know how much to sand before applying timbermate.

While I wait, I gotta blow the cobwebs off my first build diary and add in the final pictures!

Hi Mike, I use ebony timbermate is the darkest grain filler and makes the grain pop the best. I usually sand the body to about 240 grit, then apply the timbermate. Allow to dry overnight. Sand off with 240 grit and further sand to 320/360 grit should be enough to apply the stain.
Best of luck and look forward to seeing pics of the kit you scored

Cheers thanks Wokka!

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The kit arrived at the post office......managed to get it home in one piece. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...947aa6de0d.jpg

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Quick inspection:

I like the grain on the body. But looks like it's made of 4 pieces of ash, with two thin pieces on the electronics side.

Neck fits pretty well. First step on the weekend will be to do a mock build, line neck, bridge and the pick guard up.

Any tips on sanding around the horns and the ends? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...aad9ca9198.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...04af627087.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...eae6a4ecae.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...190adb3577.jpg

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Fir the curves and the horns, use whatever round rods you can find wrapped in sandpaper. You’ll need to try and follow the grain pattern at the ends, which might prove a penance given you are likely to have four different directions!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FrankenWashie

Fir the curves and the horns, use whatever round rods you can find wrapped in sandpaper. You’ll need to try and follow the grain pattern at the ends, which might prove a penance given you are likely to have four different directions!

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Agree with Frankie in that to initially remove machine markings on edges and around horns you need to sand in direction of the grain and once they are gone, revert back to sanding in the direction to be finished.

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Thanks for the advice Frankie and Waz!

So I'm currently trying a dry fit, see how everything goes together.

Firstly, neck pocket fit. One side looks ok, the other there's a gap. It's only small, might be closed with some finish but not sure.

Secondly, the neck plate holes in the body are offset to the right. Normally a bit of leeway is ok, but after fitting the neck and marking where the screws will drill into the neck I've found a problem (see last photo…ive marked in sharpie where the screws will go)

Seems that if I position the neck as is and use the body screw holes, I'll be putting the screws precariously close to the side of the neck, they may not have enough wood to grip to.

I think I may have to plug and redrill the neck plate holes on the body. Any advice before I fire up the drill?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...cccd9acfcb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4c72455edf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a9f6a1789c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...31faa393d3.jpg

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by michaelS31

Thanks for the advice Frankie and Waz!

So I'm currently trying a dry fit, see how everything goes together.

Firstly, neck pocket fit. One side looks ok, the other there's a gap. It's only small, might be closed with some finish but not sure.

Secondly, the neck plate holes in the body are offset to the right. Normally a bit of leeway is ok, but after fitting the neck and marking where the screws will drill into the neck I've found a problem (see last photo…ive marked in sharpie where the screws will go)

Seems that if I position the neck as is and use the body screw holes, I'll be putting the screws precariously close to the side of the neck, they may not have enough wood to grip to.

I think I may have to plug and redrill the neck plate holes on the body. Any advice before I fire up the drill?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...cccd9acfcb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4c72455edf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...a9f6a1789c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...31faa393d3.jpg

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Yeah, those neck plate screw holes are a bit too close to the top edge. Plug and re-drill as you have mentioned is the way to go.

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It may be arseways but here's my method before I start making mods.

1. I would measure and mark the centre of the neck at the nut, at the 12th and the heel;

2. I would measure and mark the centre of the heel rout in the body and the trem rout;

3. Then I would check that the neck is centered with the body and the trem rout (to make sure no modifications are needed - there shouldn't)

4. I would mark the centre position of the the bridge then square it up and fit and drill accordingly;

5. I would then put the low and High E tuning pegs in the neck, clamp the neck into place, then to a dry fit with the low and High E strings loaded though the trem. You will then see where to move the neck (there is a nit of wiggle room) so it is positioned so that there is even room all the way along the fretboard with both the low and High E strings.

at that point you will know thats where you want to drill the neck in place.

you can check where the pen dots are positioned at that time or just plug and redrill the whole lot.

I use 6mm tassie oak doweling from the big green shed to plug.

if you do plug and redrill, make sure you use the neck plate to square it up on the back