RC4 wiring, should it be like this.

Firstly I dont have an amp to try this on.

Found this during Cold checks on the wiring.

What I found was battling vol controls when the 3 way switch was in the mid(both PUPs)position.

Basically the vol control with the least resistance to earth was the master. In the worst case putting a vol control to 0 kills the output, effectively short grounding the o/p.

I have attached my simplified view of the wiring without the tone circuitry.

I am assuming that the wiper of the vol control is the middle tab(as per my pots).

Questions

Is the PB schematic correct or should the PUP hot wire be swapped (with the o/p wire) to go to Wiper (shorting and grounding the PUP at 0 vol)?

Or have I just got it all wrong?


Attached in the PB wiring, my assessment an genuine Rick wiring.
Attachment 22180Attachment 22181Attachment 22182

Typically, if you have a switch you use linked volume wiring, i.e ouput on the wiper like an LP. If you only have pots and no switch, like a jazz bass, you use independent volumes with the pickups on the wiper. The Ric layout is sort of a hybrid with tone on the in and volumes on the out. Each variant affects the sound in different ways, it's your choice as to what you use/prefer.

I may be missing something, but with the configuration with the output from the wiper, you put the volume control to 0 and it effectivel shorts the hot wire to earth, as both volume circuits are in parallel you will get no ouput from the guitar no mater how much you move the other volume pot ?

Whats the flaw in what I am seeing?

On the Rick wiring the the ouput cant be earther as it will always have a resistance which will be max when the vol control = 0

On the Ric wiring, the output can't be earthed, but the input can be if you don't have the correct type of selector switch. The kit switch commons up the output onto one metal tab, so that you can't feed two separate volume controls. So the PBG wiring diagram is correct for the kit parts. To use the Ric wiring method, then you'd need to get hold of a Switchcraft wafer-style selector switch where each output is taken to a separate terminal.

On the PBG wiring diagram (using your simplified version), then you simply swap the pot connections 2 and 3 over and you won't get the signal cutting out when one volume is turned right down. The volume control response curve will be different (though I don't know by how much), and this is probably why the PBG wiring diagram method is generally used.

Thanks for confirming my findings Simon. Bloody stupid idea to configure a kit like this for the sake of a switch
I had already decided to use the swap 2/3 for commissioning. Will then go with the Rick wiring on completion, may try the kit pot/caps firstly and see what it sounds like.

Just need to source a switch in the UK.

Don't Axesrus do those switches?

Spoke to Axesrus and ordered a switchcraft one--hope its correct

Should be. You'll need to splay the contacts out to prevent them touching as the two input tabs and two output tabs are very close to one another. The two output tabs are normally bent inwards so they touch and wired up to provide a single output when used in Gibsons etc. Some heat shrink insulation would be a good move as well.

The switch selection is driven by cost. And whilst it isn't the true Rickenbacker configuration, what's suggested is the norm in millions of Gibsons and associated copies and derivative guitars with a three-way switch, two volume and two tone pots. And as you've discovered, it's very easy to change the wiring yourself.

switch arrived--perfect.

Bit of a tight fit but should fit ok.