Routing pocket on semi-hollows

I would like to see (if this is possible without harming the guitar's tone) a cut-out / routing in the rear of semi hollow guitars, such as the LP style ES-2v , for the installation of the controls. I know most have to work the pots and other controls thru the "F" holes, which is sometime difficult. Although there are plenty of YouTube vids on how to make this more manageable. This can brake off leads and solder joints causing you to pull the whole thing out, make repairs and then start over again. I purchased a Warmoth Custom Moon Caster and one of the joys of this guitar is the route-out for the control pocket in the rear. This makes building so much more enjoyable and stress free. Perhaps PitBull could offer this as a option!

You could always do this yourself. You could glue some trim to the inside of the cut out to mount the control plate on, Or even rout out a shaped piece of timber, work it into the hole and glue in place...

I was wondering what is the quality like on the Warmoth items? I was looking at building a Fender Jaguar that will be as close as possible to the original and the prices seem fair if the quality is up to scratch. I worked out to get the body and neck at the cheapest option will set me back about $500 with postage and dollar conversion but if the quality is poor then I may as well get a custom build from Pitbull but then I have to rout out the cut outs myself whereas if I can buy one then it makes life a whole lot easier and quicker.

Warmoth quality is very good, plus they are Fender licensed, so you get the most accurate body and headstock shapes without you having to do any work. The neck profile and radius is your own choice. You are very unlikely to get your money back if you decide to sell it (I bought a used near-new all Warmoth parts Tele where the parts costed at £1400/A$2240 for £440/A$700) but you will have the makings of a very nice guitar. Plus, BPG don't do short scale necks (the JM-1 has a 25.5" scale neck with a non-Fender 12" radius board), so if you want an accurate Jaguar copy with a 24" scale neck, then you do need to look elsewhere.

Thanks for the info. I saw a few YouTube videos comparing the Jaguar to the Jazzmaster and I fell in love with the complexity of the wiring and the sound but as I have found out there are guitar kits then there are guitar kits and even if I use good quality parts and as much visible original Fender parts as possible, like the tremolo and tuners, I am still cheaper than buying an original plus I get to build it which keeps me out of the missus hair. Happy wife, Happy life. As for the resale value I have never worried about that as long as I stay under budget as the cheapest Jag is roughly $2200 AUD and at a rough calc I think I can stay well under the $1200 as I would be better off to just buy a new Fender and there is no way I would ever sell any of my guitars as they are part of me. Wife has spoken about selling them once I move onto the great gig in the sky but told her I will come back and haunt her. Now I have solved that problem with your help I just have to figure out how I am going to make my next love which is a 10 string Rich Bich. A bit more complex but if I can pull it off it will be great and I know I can stay well under the price of a second hand one.

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Originally Posted by Dikkybee007

I was wondering what is the quality like on the Warmoth items? I was looking at building a Fender Jaguar that will be as close as possible to the original and the prices seem fair if the quality is up to scratch. I worked out to get the body and neck at the cheapest option will set me back about $500 with postage and dollar conversion but if the quality is poor then I may as well get a custom build from Pitbull but then I have to rout out the cut outs myself whereas if I can buy one then it makes life a whole lot easier and quicker.

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Warmoth makes only high quality parts. So if you know what you want, (and they'll help you) you can get a fantastic build on the body, neck or both. You can also buy an nice new guitar for the price of a Warmoth Parts guitar. But if you have the knowledge, the Warmoth is much more "custom and specific" to your taste. Mine cost $1450.00 US plus electronics, hardware and set-up; which I did myself. But there's nothing like it anywhere! I had it come already finished.

Thanks Stan, That's a great idea. I think I'll try that. Just gotta find the correct way to cut the shape into the Basswood.

just had a look at the kit pics, seems to be based on a a routed out LP body...
If it were me: I'd decide on a simple back plate design or buy one. An LP one from a kit would be fine and surely someone would have one somewhere, or make a basic rectangular one
Use the plate to mark up the guitar.
Cut out with a dremel or even drill a hole and use a jigsaw within the lines - then use a file and sand paper for final size to get it nice
Then make up the inner trim piece that the plate will rest on and glue it in - job done
Alternatively if the back is thick enough - cut the hole undersized slightly and then fine route an edge around the outside to create a shelf for the control plate : make up a template for the router using the control plate as a guide and double side tape it to the body to route.
Or some variation of that - good luck

The cut-it-yourself route is only straightforward on the flat-backed ES2 kit. The ES-1, ES-3 and ES-5 etc. have arched backs, so a flat bit of plastic or wood isn't going to work. Plus you are reducing the strength of the back by cutting a large hole in it.

I actually found installing the electrics in an ES-1 very quick and easy (as long as you make a good stiff wiring harness), though the ES-2 looks like it could be harder with less body space to play with.

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Originally Posted by stan

just had a look at the kit pics, seems to be based on a a routed out LP body...
If it were me: I'd decide on a simple back plate design or buy one. An LP one from a kit would be fine and surely someone would have one somewhere, or make a basic rectangular one
Use the plate to mark up the guitar.
Cut out with a dremel or even drill a hole and use a jigsaw within the lines - then use a file and sand paper for final size to get it nice
Then make up the inner trim piece that the plate will rest on and glue it in - job done
Alternatively if the back is thick enough - cut the hole undersized slightly and then fine route an edge around the outside to create a shelf for the control plate : make up a template for the router using the control plate as a guide and double side tape it to the body to route.
Or some variation of that - good luck

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Thanks guys, your help and insight are most appreciated.