PBG neck pocket query/body glue recommendations

I'm thinking about a scratch body build and using a PBG neck - just wondering if anyone has compared the PBG neck heel with the stewmac neck pocket routing template? Is it a fit? I know I could make my own template, but grabbing the stewmac one would be easier and useful for future builds.

While I'm at it, I'm thinking about a pine scratch body using 2x4s glued together. Just wondering what glue people have used? I've used Titebond III in the past but it's probably a bit of overkill and a hassle to source. Any suggestions?

Cheers
Chuck

Hey Chuck, sounds like a cool project. How much are Stewmac charging for a neck pocket template including shipping ?
I'd recommend making your own template as you will learn a new skill, save money and probably get a better fit depending which PBG neck you purchase.
Note the tele and strat neck heels are slightly different, the strat is more rounded and tele is squarer.

I used the standard Titebond red label glue, should be available from good hardwares.

+1 on DIY Chuck. I have done this for rerouting the FrankenWashie neck pocket it's not hard to do.

- If you buy the StewMac ones, use them as a master and fabricate in MDF. The standard SM ones are only about 1/4" thick so you either have to chock them up, or find a really short router bit to get the bearing to run on it, one slip and it's cactus anyway.
- Use 1/2" MDF, more stable and cheaper than ply and easier to work than Acrylic, treat the edges with Thin CA glue to harden them for multiple uses.
- Hog out your base material first and use the router to clean up the profile, especially if you are only equipped with a palm router or laminate trimmer.

As far as glue, again I go +1 on what Woks said, for all of the laminating on the FrankenWashie, EXA-1 neck bond, neck laminating and subsequent headstock laminating, I just used standard red titebond, you don't need to go fancy.

Thanks guys, I've made plenty of templates in the past but I figured a stewmac perspex one would be a worthwhile investment if I were going to use it a bit. You're right though, it's not that hard making them! And I like the idea using thin CA to harden the edges. As always, great advice!

Re the glue, I've struggled to find Titebond in local hardware stores - it's always involved a trip out to Carbatec (which can be dangerous with so many cool other things to potentially buy!). I'll definitely switch to the red label one though as it's significantly cheaper.

Ah yes, Carbatec. An institution that I have banned myself from for the next few months. Sadly they have a rather good online store as well.

The main reason for the red Titebond is that the joint is super strong, but can be steamed apart if need be - probably a good idea for a neck joint