Yet another hello thread

Hi everyone,

Dan here from Adelaide. I've got an SG-1F kit sitting here in it's box that I'm keen to get stuck into. Only problem is, I'm not allowed to open it yet because it's my Father's Day present and the kids need to watch me open something on the day.

In the meantime I've been doing a bit of reading up on the forum and thinking about how I'll finish it. I just had a thought before - the Mrs does a bit of dyeing of wool and uses Landscapes dyes:
http://www.kraftkolour.net.au/dyes/w...apes-dyes.html

She's got a nice looking turquoise-ish sort of colour so I'm going to do a trial run on some pine and see how it goes. Has anyone used anything similar?

Cheers,
Dan.

Welcome Dan - I haven't seen anyone using the Landscape Dyes - would be worth a crack on some Pine - bearing in mind that different woods will take different stains slightly differently - another good place to play is in the pickup cavities - ultimately it can be sanded back or covered with some slug tape...

Hi Dan, great kit mate. hope you have fun.

Hi Dan welcome to the forum. As Brendan said give the dyes a test on some scrap pine. I've built two SG-1F kits they are a great kit. Should look cool with a turquoise colour on the flame maple veneer !
Start a build diary and ask any questions you have there, there is plenty of help here

Hi Dan, I use Nugget Boot Polish I my Neck Build...Found it on a wood working site....I like that different things pop up...The nasty chemicals are no good if your going to sit there playing it for years whilst it leaks into your lungs..i attached my neck photo before/ after to encourage different dyes...With that said I used DingoTone on the body and its BRILLANT....Used it indoors, and I have a young son..Attachment 13227Attachment 13228

Welcome Dan.

The big test for you will be how the dye copes with whatever clear top coat you want to use. Make sure you test this as well.

Hi Dan, Welcome to the GAS Factory.

Plenty of good advice already and also looked into all sorts of dyes/inks/stains for my 3rd & 4th builds. I had read somewhere about someone using leather dyes in the UK and also discovered the yarn dyes similar to ones shown on that link. Ended up using ink jet ink on my Blue Flame Top Tele diluted down to 2 parts water to 1 part ink after trying various strength combinations on a scrap bit of ply that had a bit of a grainy surface as too smooth does not give you the same results. Also experimented with adding top coat finish before deciding on mixture ratio just in case the top coat changed the colour, which does happen if using Tru Oil.

If you want to pop the grain I did mine with a slightly darker 1st stain then 24 hours later used a damp rag to wipe off as much as I could thus leaving behind a darker shade of the stain and when the 2nd coat went on that provided the light and shade effect. Much safer way to go than trying to grain fill and sand on a paper thin flame veneer.

welcome Dan, great present, and top first kit

i've used artists ink on a body - check my sister's guitar in my signature

The landscapes dyes seem to be acid or metallised acid dyes from what I read on the MSDS - which apparently will work ok on wood.

My current thinking is:
- Flame top dyed black and sanded back a touch, then dyed something bright
- Back and neck dyed a dark brown
- Add some boiled linseed oil for a bit more depth
- Finish off with thinned varnish once the oil is dry for protection

I've got a few colours of the dyes at my disposal, so I'm hoping they will turn out ok.

Sanding thin veneer tops always risks going through in places hence why I would recommend laying down the black and wipe off as much as you can whilst wet and then have another crack to wipe more off 24 hours later as this method does not require any sanding.

Once base stain coats have had a few days or more to cure you should be right to move on to the next colour as you need to be sure that the base colour won't run, smudge or blend in when next layer is added.