Fretless conversion?

I've all but decided that I want to try building a fretless bass. I want to use the JBA-4 and do the conversion myself. I've never done anything like this before (haven't even finished building my first fretted kit), so I thought I'd ask some questions.

So...

I'll need something to pull the frets with. I guess I can probably get a fret puller on ebay. What about just using side cutters? I've read and seen both "you need to heat the frets" and "you don't need to heat the frets". How would I tell which of these things I need to do?

Filling the fret holes (cavities? lines?). Looks like using veneer is the generally accepted way to do it. I've also seen people using epoxy (don't really want to) and superglue + sawdust (sounds interesting, but I can't find any tutorials online that show me the baby steps I'd need). Why wouldn't you just use a wood filler? I'm sure there's a reason, but I don't know what it is.

Let's assume I'll go with veneer. Anyone know of a place in Melbourne where I could buy appropriate (maybe maple) veneer in person? Alternatively, what thickness would I need if I was ordering online? I'll obviously need a radius sanding block. Can anyone tell me which size I'd need for the JBA4? Is there an Aussie supplier (I prefer to buy from a local if I can) or do I order one from stewmac? Realparts doesn't seem to have one.

Finishing! I have no idea, apart from that I don't really want to mess around with epoxy if I can help it. Again, I've seen "use superglue", but how? What other alternative finishes are there? If it's sanded flat, can it just be waxed or oiled like a regular fretboard, or is there something special about the fretlessness that means it needs a different kind of finish?

I'd also need to file down the nut, right? I'll probably order a bone one for this build. Just sand the bottom of it until it's the right height? Or is there a bone-specific method?

Sorry for all the questions, my lack of experience in wood work in general is probably leading to me using the wrong search terms so I'm having trouble finding all this info for myself.

Uppercase, I've just pretty much done the same with my JBA-4 kit.

http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=3985

Not sure if you have purchased the kit but from memory there is now a fret-less 5 string version in the PBG shop, could save some time?

To remove the frets I used an old fashioned butter knife. I just slipped under the end side of the fret, lifted and pulled out by hand.

To fill the frets I used superglue and maple saw dust. It worked but was a real pain to do especially along the edges. I recommend veneer (you should find something on YouTube on this...). Others in this forum have mentioned cable ties, plastic plant pot labels so other alternatives worth exploring

Finishing the fretboard - I believe a good finish is required else the strings (especially roundwound) will make a mess of it with no frets to push against. I use flatwounds over a superglue fretboard and no damage to date. I used superglue on my fretboard but would use epoxy in future (as forum member Wazkelly also recently mentioned in his fretless bass conversion). Superglue was a bit of a pain to get right due to clouding issues but with persistence came up well.

For the nut I lowered by sanding from the bottom (its a flat-bottomed style nut and not radiused on the underside like a Flunder JB). The nut on mine is very low.

Hope that helps!

Thanks Andrew!

Maybe I'll just bite the bullet and use epoxy then! Definitely going with veneer if I can find somewhere to buy it. The process looks... not exactly difficult, but time consuming. I want something to work on, so I'd like to do it myself and learn some more skills rather than just buying a fretless neck.

I was planning on taking the flatwound strings off my p-bass (to restring with rounds) and using them on the fretless build. I love the flatwound sound, but I'd also like some brighter sounds, so... two basses! (Three ba... FOU... eh, just keep stacking 'em up until the mrs complains...)

Andrew, I've been reading your thread and see that you're using a 12" radius block. Is that the standard for a J-bass or are you using it specifically for the fretless conversion?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by UpperCaseH

Thanks Andrew!
I love the flatwound sound, but I'd also like some brighter sounds, so... two basses! (Three ba... FOU... eh, just keep stacking 'em up until the mrs complains...)

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If you wait until the spoken complaint, then you've missed the subtle body language and raised eyebrow looks that are the unspoken complaint. it should all be "Fine" though because she "really doesn't mind" and you can do "Whatever" you feel like. :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by andrewdosborne

Uppercase, I've just pretty much done the same with my JBA-4 kit.

http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=3985

Not sure if you have purchased the kit but from memory there is now a fret-less 5 string version in the PBG shop, could save some time?

To remove the frets I used an old fashioned butter knife. I just slipped under the end side of the fret, lifted and pulled out by hand.

To fill the frets I used superglue and maple saw dust. It worked but was a real pain to do especially along the edges. I recommend veneer (you should find something on YouTube on this...). Others in this forum have mentioned cable ties, plastic plant pot labels so other alternatives worth exploring

Finishing the fretboard - I believe a good finish is required else the strings (especially roundwound) will make a mess of it with no frets to push against. I use flatwounds over a superglue fretboard and no damage to date. I used superglue on my fretboard but would use epoxy in future (as forum member Wazkelly also recently mentioned in his fretless bass conversion). Superglue was a bit of a pain to get right due to clouding issues but with persistence came up well.

For the nut I lowered by sanding from the bottom (its a flat-bottomed style nut and not radiused on the underside like a Flunder JB). The nut on mine is very low.

Hope that helps!

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Echoing Andrew's experience, i removed the first and 22nd frets on my explorer to drill guide pin holes when I stripped the fretboard to perform some minor(major) neck tenon surgery (Butchered Hack job) using a thin bladed flat probe. its doable, its nerve wracking but with care and an easy does it touch you should be okay.

Or you can outlay for the fret board protectors and fret stripping pliers from StewMac and save your nerves. It may also provide you with a much cleaner result for the refilling of the slots with your chosen medium. would probably save you a butt load of time in the actual defretting operation as well.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by UpperCaseH

Andrew, I've been reading your thread and see that you're using a 12" radius block. Is that the standard for a J-bass or are you using it specifically for the fretless conversion?

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I think the kit is, anyhow I personally prefer 12" radius so if it wasn't originally it is now!

Sent from my SM-T700 using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FrankenWashie

Echoing Andrew's experience, i removed the first and 22nd frets on my explorer to drill guide pin holes when I stripped the fretboard to perform some minor(major) neck tenon surgery (Butchered Hack job) using a thin bladed flat probe. its doable, its nerve wracking but with care and an easy does it touch you should be okay.

Or you can outlay for the fret board protectors and fret stripping pliers from StewMac and save your nerves. It may also provide you with a much cleaner result for the refilling of the slots with your chosen medium. would probably save you a butt load of time in the actual defretting operation as well.

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Ah yes forgot the nerve wrecking experience of removing the frets. There is potential for lots of damage. That has since been long forgotten in the reggae bass groves I'm now lost in :)

Sent from my SM-T700 using Tapatalk

Quote:

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Originally Posted by andrewdosborne

That has since been long forgotten in the reggae bass groves I'm now lost in :)

Sent from my SM-T700 using Tapatalk

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MMM an easy reggae afternoon would be good about now.

Hey H, pretty well all the PBG kits have a 12" radius fingerboard so you are pretty safe the JBA kit is. I just checked my buddys JBA neck and it is 12" radius fingerboard, he has converted his to fretless too and it is masked but pretty sure it's 12"