TL-1TB Build

This is the first Kit I will building, and as the title suggests it is a TL-1TB.

1. Firstly started off with checking all the parts were present, and checked their initial fit. . You can click on the link above to view what comes with this kit. The basic plan is to only use the stock hardware for this build. Better and fancier gear will be reserved for when I have a better idea of what I'm doing.
Attachment 11773

2. I sanded through the grits up to 400. Timbermate Walnut Wood Filler thinned with a bit of water was firstly tested on piece where the scratch plate wood go, and after it was successful I proceeded to paint the rest across the guitar, followed with addtional sanding. - It may have been a better choice to have done this first then sanding but, either way it worked out great in the end.
Attachment 11774
Attachment 11775

Also, The top popped out great whilst the rest of the guitar is only noticeable if water has been introduced to the surface? As far I thought I knew, It was a basswood body so I am assuming to the top is something else? Personally, no idea what it is.

3. I don't have a picture of this, but I put the floating bridge in place, as well as the pickups, and held the neck in place with clamps to see how the strings are sitting along the fretboard from the nut to the bridge.

I discovered that the neck is sitting at a negative angle, and as the next pictures illustrate, the neck pocket is where the problem is. The inner routing of the pocket is about 16.5mm, whilst the back is approx. 18.5 - 19mm.
Attachment 11778
Attachment 11779

//Continued next post//

As far as the fretboard sits, these next two images show the height of the front and back of the fretboard in relevance to the body.
Attachment 11780
Attachment 11781


So this is where I'm at:

Im unsure what to do to the neck pocket? A backwards based shim or progressively take small amounts from the heel?
Fixing the pocket seems like the preferable thing to do - If I had to replace the neck in future for any reason, it would benefit from not having to change the heel.

Also, Before Staining I assume that I should drill all the hole for the pickguard, knob plate, pickups and the bigsby?


Thanks for your help!
Luke.

Hi Luke. This is where a mock up build comes in handy, I haven't built a guitar with a bigsby but a break angle is not necessarily a bad thing. I would do a mock build first and check your string height before taking any timber out of the neck pocket as it may not be needed. The other guys in the forum who have built these may have the exact answer,
Easy to take timber out much harder to put it back in:(

defiantly check with someone who has built one or with DB.

Luke, the neck on this model is angled back (similar to a LP style, but not quite as much). Your pictures look consistent with the neck angle on mine. You should not need to shim or adjust the neck pocket.

Hi Luke. I think the pocket is fine. Using a tune o matic bridge the neck needs a back break angle. Do a full mock build and put the strings on to check the string action

Hey Guys Thanks for the replies!

I did a mock build and the strings were hugging the fretboard to make their way to the bridge, and curved over the end to get to the bridge.
For those who have a similar setup, what height do the strings sit at on the bridge? (The height of the saddle to the body), As well as what is the preferred string action height to the fretboard?

I may be looking at this set up wrong, as i'm only used to non trem guitars. :)

Also, Should I drill ALL holes on the body before staining or afterwards? (I've seen both done, unsure if it matters).

One thing I do with G-style guitars is to place the bridge on some lollipop sticks (to simulate it sitting correctly in the bridge posts). Then with the neck in place I run a long straight rule down the center of the fretboard (ruler on its edge) and over the bridge. You should be on track if the bottom edge of the rule touches the top of the bridge. If there is a large gap between the bottom edge of the rule and the top of the bridge some other factors may need to be considered...

Hey Storm,
I usually set the string action to about 2mm at the 21st fret but that's a personal choice. The lower the string action the more level the frets have to be levelled to avoid fret buzz
Up to you if you drill all the holes now or later. Less chance of messing up the finish if you pre-drill all the holes earlier in the build

I used an after-market roller bridge on mine (which has a fractionally lower profile than the stock bridge), but as the others have said you do need a neck break angle for the TOM bridge on this model. I use fishing line when testing as it's a little easier to manage when you're tweaking things. Don't alter your neck angle unless you are absolutely certain it is necessary. On mine a 2 degree angle in the pocket was about perfect for the roller bridge, allowing a nice string clearance at a low bridge setting.

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...TB-body_12.jpg

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...TB-body_18.jpg

http://www.pitbullguitars.com/wp-con...TB-body_20.jpg

(no Wokks, it's still not finished)