Dyes / Stains for wood, how narrow a field of choice is it?

I'm new to this field, but like most things I get interested in, I like to read up on a topic before I ask a question.

I think I've read up enough to ask this one.

When it comes to Dyes/ stains, they seem to be pretty much the same, either, Alcohol, Oil or Water based.

The major difference [As I understand it - please correct me if I am wrong] is basically the best practise regarding application...and drying time before re-coat, depending on what sort of effect you are trying to achieve.

Also the type of pigment used in the dye/stain used, which I suspect would mainly effect it's colour fastness [how long before any particular colour fades - some fade quicker than others]

Now my question.

What differentiates WATER BASED wood dyes / stains, in liquid form [which is how most are purchased] from a pure Artist's level undiluted watercolour paint, diluted to the same level as a Dye/stain, and used in the same manner?

Is it a matter of particle size of the pigment?

I'm unsure as to the difference , if any, regarding how well water colour pigment would be absorbed by wood.

I know the lightfastness of Windsor & Newton Artist level Watercolours are rated in the hundreds of years,[except 2 or 3 , Yellows and Pink]
The colour range is HUGE, they are all easy to be dissolved in water...just add more pigment for the desired intensity.....easy to mix to a unobtainable premixed colour/shade

I've seen people using Fabric dyes, printer ink and God knows what else to dye/stain bare wood......

Is there any rules regarding dyes/ stains that need to be adhered to ?

Just wondering....I've got nearly every colour of Windsor & Newton Artist Water colour paints in tubes.......anybody tried this medium as a wood dye/stain?

They are not cheap [Average $35 for 14ml tube of the Cadmium range - this is VERY intense pigment we are talking about ] that's why I ask if anybody knows if this works, or how well it works....or has even tried.

It would be used on Maple, as it's the Whitest background, like watercolour paper.

This takes me back to my Art School days :)

With the water based stains commercially sold for timber vs artist grade it is really down to the intensity of the colour.
You cant go wrong if you use W&N pigments.

The only thing you need to be aware of is the swelling of the timber when using waterbased so it is advisable to test your colour intensity on a scrap first, and after it has dried adjusting the intensity so you can get the desired result in one or two applications.

On hard, dense timbers like Maple it would be desirable to get the intensity right on the first go as it just isn't very absorbent.

This is why I tend to use a spirit or citrine terpine based stain on Maple as it penetrates more effectively but you can get fairly decent results with waterbased stains.
It really is down to personal choice.

And while on the subject of waterbased finishes, it is very important to go through the sanding regimin (with the grain) and then finally wet the wood slightly with a damp cloth and use your 0000 steel wool to finish your smoothing process across the grain to get rid of any broken swollen wood fibres! Thereafter you can look forward to a very smooth finish with your water based paints.

Ok, I'll give it a try on some Maple headstock veneer I've ordered.[Thinking ahead about doing some Marquetry, depends on results ]

I'll also try some of the Faber Castell Albrecht Dürer artists' watercolour pencils to put on dry pigment directly to the wood, then go over it with a Water pen.
I suppose it will all come down to how much pigment could be put on the wood, from the pencil, without it leaving pressure lines or spoiling the wood finish in other ways during application...... if passable, it could turn out to be a very easy way to get very finely controllable colour gradients , which would be great for 'Bursts'....you'll never know till you have a go.

Nice idea, well worth a try.
Could end up with a nice watercolour effect which could look very trippy :)