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Build #2, thanks to the 3rd Anniversary Specials: an LP-1SSL lefty spalted maple LP.
I nearly didn't buy one, but the spalted "siren" kept calling me back...
I'm quite pleased with it. The spalted maple veneer is very thin (0.5mm?), so I'll be very careful sanding back the tape/glue marks.
Some quick, bad photos out of the box are attached.
Early thoughts on finishing:
(Blonde?) shellac for the spalted veneers to keep sanding to a minimum, and retain as much character and contrast as possible.
No idea for the mahogany! Three very different pieces of wood (pale, "normal", and quarter sawn/figured).
I'd like to keep it "natural", but somehow even out the differences without hiding the wood.
Shellac may be an option (garnet?)
I need to do a "wet" test to get a better idea of how it will look, and how thirsty the mahogany is.
Hi ozzie,
Wow man, some really nice figure there! This is going to be one amazing looking axe.
Personally, I would recommend getting some "goof-off" glue remover for those glue spots on the veneer. It may not remove all the glue, but it will definitely reduce the amount of sanding you need to do and reduce the risk of sand-through. On my current LP build I used 3 passes of the stuff on each glue spot and I was really impressed with the results. Anyway, something to think about.
cheers,
Gav.
nice stuff mate, I got a spalted leftie as well, hope it's as good as this one....
chances are it will get put away for Christmas....
great spalt on that one!
Thanks, guys.
That "Goof Off" stuff sounds great, Gav; I picked up a small can this arvo.
I ordered 125g each of de-waxed white (granulated), and de-waxed ruby (flake) from The Wood Works, and diluted it with Digger's methylated spirits (95% ethanol.) I started with a 1lb cut (approx. 30g shellac in 250ml of metho), but switched to a 2lb cut (60g/250ml) to build up the finish more quickly. Foam brushes work well but can shed a few crumbs.
"White" shellac is really a very pale yellow, but is as close to clear as you can get. I'm using it for the spalted maple to maximize the contrasting colours, and as the sealing coat on the mahogany. I may also use it as a top coat, as it's supposed to be a little harder than other shellacs, and will let me add more coats without the colour getting too dark.
"Ruby" shellac is dark red, though it looked very yellow/gold when I first applied it to the mahogany; it's getting better with each coat. Fortunately, it rubs off the bindings fairly easily with a bit of steel wool. (Garnet - dark brown - may have been closer to the colour I had in mind, but ruby is growing on me.)
I started shaping the headstock in the traditional "open book" style, but was having a lot of trouble with it; I decided to leave it as a flattened tombstone shape. (I may revisit it in the future, but I'm pretty happy with it.)
There were a few light dings in the fretboard closest to the nut, but they steamed up very easily; I've oiled it with Fret Doctor.
The shellac has brought out some nice figuring and chatoyancy ("flame") in the timber; I've reversed the neck to show how the light and dark patches are a trick of the light. More coats are required (particularly the ruby), but it's getting there.
Thats looking like a million bucks
That looks amazing! I love the pattern of the spalt!
Gav- question about the goof off - no issue with the glue holding the veneer? Too late for this kit, but would be great info for future projects.
Lovely spalty goodness! Coming along nicely