Bridge routing and/or neck shims.

Guys,

I have made a couple of bass guitars now and note that compared to manufactured ones they seem a little high with the action.

I had read a couple of build diaries here with references to "Recessing the Bridge."

My queries are:-

1. What tools are being used to make the recess? e.g. Dremel, ozito rotary tool.....and with what attachments. Please excuse the Big Green shed reference....but easiest place for me to chase these things down. I was thinking of these two things....cheaper.

http://www.bunnings.com.au/ozito-170...l-kit_p6290175

http://www.bunnings.com.au/craftrigh...-case_p6312374

as opposed to this....dearer.....

http://www.bunnings.com.au/dremel-13...l-kit_p6280040

http://www.bunnings.com.au/dremel-pl...hment_p6373700

2. How do I correctly measure any such recess to ensure I dig the correct hole?

3. Do I need to do both...shim and recess or is one better than the other.

Thank You for your ideas.

Greg

Hey greg,

Personally, if you have the guitar finished and assembled already, then a shim is the most painless way to go. All you need to do is loosen the strings, unbolt the neck and make a shim to go in the bottom half of the neck pocket. You can do this without any risk to your instrument - if you dont like it, then just take it out again! I usually make my shim out of plastic milk bottle. Maybe not the purest of luthier materials, but it's easy to work with, it won't compress easily, and I've had great results on a number of builds.

I remove the neck from the pocket, leaving the neck bolts in place (sticking just out of the holes). Cut the plastic to the shape of the bottom end of the pocket and then press it down onto the tips of the bolts sticking through the holes so that they puncture it. Use some scissors to trim off the plastic that has been pushed up and the shim should be able to go over the bolts and sit flat in the neck pocket. Re-attach the neck, check your action and (hopefully) adjust the bridge to bring the strings up off the lowest frets.

If the neck angle isn't back far enough, you might need a second layer, but I never have yet.

Hope this helps.

cheers,
Gav.

I agree with Gav. A shim is quick and easy and can make a dramatic difference. Plus, it's easy to adjust or remove completely. I use scraps of wood veneer.

that is a sweet tip Gav, noted...

If you find the milk bottle plastic is a touch too thick, try photocopy paper soaked with thin CA glue.

Oh, and with the rotary tool question go for the Dremel.
Sure, costs a bit more but the difference in quality more than makes up for the cost.
My Dremel must be pushing 20 years now and it still does a great job.. I use it several times a week.

The thing is, you are always better off to spend a few dollars more on tools.
Cheap tools give cheap results.

Wow thanks guys for the info. DB I think I shall save a few pennies and get a dremel. I think a powered one will suit me better than a rechargeable.

Photocopy paper seems to be used for lots....wudtone finishing....so that is photo copy paper with a little super glue on it....awesome tip guys.

Gav, are you serious....the plastic from a milk bottle. Wow. Like the flat side of one of those square 2 litre ones??? That works well for you. Amazing. Thanks for the hint.

I am trying to resurrect the purple wreck from last year that has been sitting in the corner smugly sneering at me.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dingobass

If you find the milk bottle plastic is a touch too thick, try photocopy paper soaked with thin CA glue.

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awesome tip DB!